By design we really haven't gotten very far on this cross-country drive. We've taken our time and enjoyed some new places as well as revisited some our favorites. We've spent this past week in Flagstaff, Arizona. Our only previous experience with Flagstaff (or "Flag" as it's known to locals who are so proud of their city) had been driving through on the way to and from the Grand Canyon. On our last drive through in 2018, the pine and fir trees in and around the city were covered with snow. Our only stops previously had been brief for groceries and gas. However, on those quick drive throughs, we had always commented that Flagstaff looked like an interesting place to visit. As it turns out, it really is!
Flagstaff is listed as the sixteenth largest city in Arizona. I was a little surprised to find it that low on the list, however, many of the larger ones are in the suburbs surrounding Phoenix. In one way Flagstaff stands head and shoulders above Phoenix, that's in elevation. Phoenix is around 1,000 feet above sea level, while Flagstaff is close to 7,000 feet. Although the two cities are only 150 miles apart, at this time of year it can be in the seventies in Phoenix and in the twenties or thirties in Flagstaff. Our first morning in Flagstaff we woke up to a tropical 18 with a wind chill factor of -2! Needless to say, it was a little nippy that morning, but happily the temperatures have moderated. We really enjoyed exploring "Flag", as well as revisiting some of our favorite places in Northern Arizona that are located within an easy drive.
Below are a few of the adventures we've had during our visit to "Flag".
Sedona
Just a short 45-minute drive from Flagstaff is the Verde Valley, which is home to the small, colorful town of Sedona. There are numerous trails and golf courses. Oak Creek, which passes through the town, is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts also. Half the fun of visiting Sedona from Flagstaff is the drive on 89A through Oak Creek Canyon. Driving the winding road to Sedona the elevation drops close to 4.500 feet. When we started the drive there was still a scattering of snow on the ground from a heavy snow the area had received about three weeks ago. Arriving in Sedona we were surrounded by the iconic red rocks, and while still chilly, the temperature had warmed 15-20 degrees to the high forties.
We enjoyed walking along main street, occasionally sticking our heads in several of the tourist shops and art galleries. After a nice early lunch at the TripAdvisor "cheap eats" recommended Cafe Jose, we stopped briefly at the Chapel of the Holy Cross before hitting the trail. Our trail of choice for the day was the Little Horse Trail, a 4.3 mile (roundtrip) out and back trail rated as "moderate". There are so many trail options of various lengths and degrees of difficulty around Sedona. They are all incredibly scenic. Just pick one based on length and difficulty. You can't go wrong!
Wupatki and Sunset Crater Volcano
Evidence of humans living in this area dates back thousands of years. By 1180, Native Americans were farming the plains just north of where the city of Flagstaff is today. They lived in communal pueblos and worked together to successfully farm even though the environmental conditions weren't favorable.
Just a short drive-up Highway 89 is Wupatki National Monument (managed by the National Park Service). It houses the remains of pueblos and villages that once dotted the landscape. A short drive from Wupatki National Monument is Sunset Crater National Monument. One admission fee covers the cost of both parks. Of course, we were able to use our National Park pass for free admission.
Sunset Crater National Monument
There are several areas of pueblos that can be explored, including the Wupatki Pueblos, which range in size from single story one room structures to multi-story complex structures. Some of the areas have been excavated and reconstructed, while others have been preserved in their natural state. Those look quite weathered after over 800 years. There is a nice visitors center and short (less than a mile) interpretive trail that gives great insight to what life must have been like at that time. Farming in the harsh environment must have been very difficult, but they figured it out.
One thing that the Native Americans had no answer for was a major volcano that erupted around the same time. Evidence of volcanic activity in the area dates back millions of years. The 1,000 foot cinder cone Sunset Crater is the remains of last of the volcanic activity in the area. The eruption of this volcano is believed to have forced those living in the area at that time to relocate elsewhere. At the base of the crater there is a short interpretive trail, as well as a slightly longer Lava Flow Trail. We covered the interpretive trail and part of the Lava Flow Trail, until we hit an area still covered with ice which forced us to turn around.
The Grand Canyon
We debated for a while if we would revisit the Grand Canyon, but the temptation to stand on the south rim of that big hole proved to be too great. On previous visits to the Grand Canyon we had taken I-40 to Highway 64. We discovered a much more scenic route, taking Highway 180 through the Coconino National Forest, and past the Arizona Snowbowl (one of three ski areas in Northern Arizona). This route was much more enjoyable than taking the interstate and added less than 10 minutes to the hour and a half drive.
When we arrived at the Grand Canyon there wasn't a cloud in the sky and the temperature was around 35 degrees. Not bad conditions at all........except for the 20 mile an hour wind that was blowing out of the north.
Ignoring the wind chill factor, we enjoyed a six mile (roundtrip) walk along the rim trail from the visitor's center to the Bright Angel Lodge. After lunch in the lodge, the return walk was much more pleasant thanks to the warming temperatures (low forties) and most importantly, the wind calming down.
The Grand Canyon certainly has earned the name "Grand" and once again it didn't disappoint. With every twist and turn along the trail, and as the sun moved across the still cloudless sky, the colors and shadows created spectacular views, making us happy that we had decided to make another visit.
Walnut Canyon
Walnut Canyon is less than 10 miles from Flagstaff, and like Wupatki and Sunset Crater is a National Monument. Unlike the pueblos of Wupatki, the Native Americans living in Walnut Canyon made their homes under the overhanging canyon cliffs. While conditions in Walnut Canyon were still challenging, there was water flowing along the canyon floor and somewhat fertile land to farm along the canyon rim. It still wasn't easy. There was the logistical challenge of getting water from the canyon floor to both shelters and the farmland.
Walnut Canyon National Monument
There is a visitor's center at Walnut Canyon as well as two trails, both of which were great. The Rim Trail was a little less than a mile long, flat and easy with great views down into the canyon and the cliff dwellings. Getting an up-close look at the dwellings required a little more effort. The Island Trail goes down into the canyon. The effort is not so much the 273 steps down into the canyon, as it is the 273 steps back to the rim. Combining the steps with just under 7,000 feet of elevation takes a little effort but is well worth it. There are plenty of informative signs along the way and plenty of benches to stop, rest and take in the amazing scenery of the canyon.
Flagstaff (a.k.a. "Flag")
We really enjoyed our stay in Flagstaff and ran out of days before we ran out of fun things to do in and around the city. Everyone we met, who are fortunate enough to call Flagstaff home, were super friendly and immensely proud of their city.
Two of Flagstaff's biggest claims to fame are Route 66 and the Lowell Observatory. We're staying less than two miles off the famous highway that was established in 1926, connecting Chicago to Las Angeles. Although much has changed over time along Route 66, a few of the buildings and hotels with their neon signs remain.
The Lowell Observatory, which was established in 1894 is one of the oldest observatories in the United States. The observatory was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1965, and in 2011 Time Magazine named it one of "The World's 100 Most Important Places". Back in 1930 an astronomer named Clyde Tombaugh discovered Pluto from the Lowell Observatory. All was well and good with Pluto as a planet until it was cancelled in 2006 by the International Astronomical Union for not meeting all the criteria of a full-size planet. Its status was changed to a "dwarf planet". I guess the cancel culture has been around for longer than we thought!
On Saturday afternoon we spent some time in the downtown historic district, which was bustling with activity as college students (the University of Northern Arizona is here), families, and even a few of us older folks roamed in and out of the numerous shops, restaurants and bars, as well as soaking up some sunshine on the Heritage Square Plaza.
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Tomorrow morning the real "road trip" portion of this adventure begins. We'll put Flagstaff in the rearview mirror and put the pedal to the metal. We will have about thirty hours of driving to cover over the next three days. Ironically, we're not quite finished with getting our kicks on Route 66. We'll be traveling close and sometimes on the old Route 66, which is now Interstate 40. We'll do a brief stop so we can stand on a corner, as well as a stop to visit the Petrified Forest National Park. By tomorrow (Wednesday) night we will be in Weatherford, Oklahoma which is............you guessed it........on Route 66!
