Sunday, May 30, 2021

Alaska wrapup.........Girdwood and Gone!

A trail with a bench and a view in Girdwood!

After two fun and adventure filled weeks, we left Alaska five days ago (May 25).  We're now in California (aka The People's Republic of California), where according to Sarah the mantra related to the pandemic was "trust science" until science eased up the guidelines.  While the rest of the US is starting to open up aggressively, California has determined that the appropriate date is June 15.  We're here until June 26 so we'll be here to celebrate their new found freedoms, unless they decide something different between now and then.

We spent our last two days of our Alaska adventure in Girdwood.  This small resort community (pop. 1,749) is located about 45 minutes from downtown Anchorage in a valley surrounded by seven glaciers.  Girdwood is home to the Alyeska Ski Resort, which is Alaska's largest ski area.  Ski season has ended and the summer crowds haven't arrived yet.  This was our second time staying at the Alyeska Resort.  The last time was in the fall, after the summer crowds had left and before the ski season started up. 

Sometimes I am accused of repeating myself and as much as I would like to, I can't deny this accusation.  In an effort not to repeat anything about Girdwood or the Alyeska Resort that I have shared in previous blogs, I'm going to simply provide a link to those blogs.  Here's a few pictures and some tidbits of information that I haven't covered previously before I close out my Alaska blogs for now.

 August 29, 2018 Blog 

August 30, 2018 Blog

The Alyeska Resort in Girdwood

Glacier Creek near the small downtown section of Girdwood

Moose Meadows......we've looked for moose here on several occasions but haven't seen any in this location.............

............but we did see a mother black bear and her two cubs near the hotel.  Our total bear count for this trip was 15.  6 Grizzlies and 9 Blacks.

Dipping for smelt in the Turnagain Arm waterway.  Smelt are small, oily fish that are considered a staple to many native Alaskan diets.  They run in the spring at a time when food supplies are typically low so they are sometimes referred to as "resurrection fish".  Additionally, they are so oily that they can be dried out and used as candles so they are sometimes called..........you guessed it........."candle fish".

Alaska is truly amazing and we always leave looking forward to our next visit.  Our repeat visits were to Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali and Girdwood.  The new destinations were Homer, Sheep Mountain and Valdez. We look forward to seeing them all again.  The natural beauty, diversity and friendly people of the 49th state keep drawing us back for more.  

Here are a few random thoughts that you may find helpful if you're planning a visit to Alaska.

It's a big state, with the exception of Talkeetna, each place we visited should be given at least two full days if possible.  Talkeetna shouldn't be missed, but it can be done as part of a day trip or one night stay.

Enjoy the drive!  The roads are not crowded and the scenery is amazing.  Stop often to take in the views and breathe in the fresh air.  The journey is every bit as good as the destinations.

Pace yourself!  The sun rises early and sets late (if at all).  During the summer months the golf courses are open 24/7.  There's a midnight baseball league and so much more.  You'll still need to get some rest.  Many of the hotels and private accommodations have "black out" curtains.  Use them, they're your friend!

The weather can be tricky.  Although we were very lucky during our two weeks.  Bring layers of clothing and raingear..........you'll be glad you did!

If at all possible plan your visit before Memorial Day or after Labor Day.  The crowds are smaller and the rates are better.  In early September the colors are amazing, but in late spring the mountains are still snow covered. 

  

Alaska..........you'll have a beary good time!

Monday, May 24, 2021

Valdez and a ferry good six hours!

The John Thomas Kelsey Municipal Dock was a great place to relax and take in the spectacular scenery.  Is it Switzerland or Alaska?

I'll have to admit that prior to starting this adventure I knew very little about Valdez, Alaska.  I did know it was a city located somewhere in Alaska.  I also knew that Exxon had a ship named Valdez that had run aground years ago causing a massive oil spill and environmental disaster.  Those two sentences pretty much sum it up.  Thankfully I'm married to a wonderful planner who knows a lot more and is an expert in researching and finding amazing places for us to visit.  

It was our first time staying in a tiny home (Airbnb).  It was very comfortable and we had plenty of room.

If I had to sum up Valdez in one word it would probably be WOW!  Beth told me that this city of around 4,000 residents that is located on the Prince William Sound is often referred to as Little Switzerland.  Having visited Switzerland some years back, I had to see it to believe it.  Having just spent two wonderful days in Valdez, it can certainly hold it's own to any place I've seen in Switzerland.  The charming, small city is surrounded by snow covered mountains, with what literally seemed like hundreds of waterfalls feeding freshly melted snow into the blue-green waters of the Prince William Sound.

Welcome to Valdez!

Valdez Harbor

Valdez  

At this time of year Valdez is waking from a long winter hibernation.  I was surprised to learn that it is actually classified as a temperate rainforest.  When I think of rainforests, I associate them with warm climates, but now I know that it's not always the case.  The amount of precipitation and cold (but not bitterly cold like some other places in Alaska) winter temperatures make Valdez one of the snowiest places on earth.  Annually it receives over 300 inches of snow, creating snow drifts that can sometimes be higher than the street lights!  

On Good Friday in 1964 the second strongest earthquake ever recorded struck just 45 miles from Valdez.  Most of the town was destroyed and 31 people lost their lives.  The ground was determined to not be safe for rebuilding.  Fifty two properties that were "structurally safe" were moved four miles away and a new town of Valdez was built.  This picture was taken at what is now known as Old Town Valdez.  These pilings were all that remained of part of the pier.
 
You can do a self guided tour of Old Town Valdez.  There are historical markers.  This is all that remains of the "Village Morgue".  I later learned the Village Morgue was actually a bar!

Glacier View Park near Valdez

The snow in the town has melted, the fishing and sightseeing boats are starting to run and within a few weeks Valdez will be filled with tourists.  It was really nice to catch it before everyone arrives.  However, we're thankful that it looks like it's shaping up to be a busy summer.  I'm sure the small shops, restaurants and other businesses are looking forward to doing a booming business.  As for our time in Valdez, we enjoyed simply roaming around and taking in the 360 degrees of awesome that Valdez has to offer, and frequently uttering words like wow, amazing, and incredible!
We spent the majority of our time walking the harbor district and sitting in the chairs on the Kelsey Municipal Pier.


Late yesterday (Sunday) morning we departed Valdez, but not in the same manner that we arrived.  We drove to Valdez by way of the Glenn and Richardson Highways.  To reach our next and final Alaska destination for this adventure (Girdwood) we had two options.  A 339 mile (approx. 6 hour) drive or a 6 hour ferry ride.  As much as we've enjoyed the driving we opted for the ferry.  It was a ferry, ferry good choice as we cruised slowly past the snow covered mountains and past numerous glaciers while enjoying  eagles, sea otters, seals and even one humpback whale.

The ferry coming up Prince William Sound to Valdez.

Getting closer..............

On board and cruising the sound!

Blue skies and smooth water!

This eagle was looking for a fish that wasn't paying attention!

The Exxon Valdez oil spill (1989) actually occurred close to the town of Valdez.  Over 11 million gallons of crude oil spilled into the water.  It impacted over 1.300 miles of Alaskan coast line.  The total cost of clean up was near 3 billion dollars and the total impact of the disaster was estimated at over 7 billion dollars.  With a lot of effort and time the area has been restored, although even today the area is still closely monitored for any late emerging effects.  This picture was taken in an area known as "Glacier Alley".  There were numerous small icebergs floating in the water, but no Titanic moments!



Approaching Whitter and the end of the ferry journey.

By road the only way in or out of Whitter is the 2.5 mile long Whitter Tunnel.  It's the longest highway tunnel in North America.  It is a one lane tunnel so the traffic direction changes every thirty minutes.  To make things even more interesting there are occasional trains that use the tunnel which cause additional delays.  It operates from 5:30 AM until 11:15 PM.

Deep in the Whitter Tunnel!  Notice the train tracks.......thankfully there were no approaching trains!

It's hard to believe we're getting near the end of this adventure...........however, it's exciting to know that the journey continues.

Saturday, May 22, 2021

Getting a close up look at the the Matanuska Glacier...........

 

The best way to get up close to the Matanuska Glacier!

Our time at the Sheep Mountain Lodge was a combination of relaxation, while taking in the great views, and a high flying adventure.  From check in on Wednesday afternoon until departure around noon on Friday we didn't crank up the car.  Although most of our driving for this Alaskan adventure is behind us, we've already put over 1,500 miles on the car.  I think it had earned a little time off.

The lodge offered several trail options that had trail heads on the property.  These trails are used year round, as hiking trails in the summer and groomed cross country ski trails in the winter.  The snow has melted and we enjoyed a nice hike along one of the flatter trails that ran behind the Glacier View Airport.  Much to our surprise, we found a bench along the trail that gave us a great view of some Dall Sheep on the side of the tall, steep mountain that is appropriately named Sheep Mountain.  

Watching the dall sheep lick rocks.

The sheep are quite a sight to watch.  They perform death defying acts of walking and jumping from one small ledge to another.  We've learned that it's not just a game of "follow the leader" or "amuse the tourist".  There are several reasons they do what they do, where they do it.  First, they're well protected from most predators.  Secondly, the rocks along the side of the mountains are rich in minerals like sodium and magnesium.  The sheep literally lick the rocks to replenish minerals not readily available in their diet.  Fun to watch, but I don't think I'll replicate this feat.  I'll just stick to my One-A-Day-Vitamin for old men.

We were pleasantly surprised to learn that the lodge had a hot tub.  Along our travels we've rarely met a hot tub we didn't like and that was certainly the case here.  Although it was indoors it had huge windows that could be opened for fresh mountain air and magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.  We enjoyed a couple of soaks in the hot water while kicking back and taking in the scenery.

The highlight of our time at Sheep Mountain Lodge was on Friday just before check out.  We had talked with Mark about a helicopter tour and glacier landing.  He and his wife Ruthann own and run the lodge.  Mark is licensed as both a fixed wing and helicopter pilot as well as an aviation mechanic.  He offers flight seeing tours of the glacier and surrounding mountains, as well as transportation for more adventurous (and probably younger) folks who do ice climbing, back country camping, etc.  He also knows the weather in the area really well.  In spite of what the Weather Channel was showing, he said the weather would be better on Friday morning than Thursday afternoon.  If you can't trust your pilot with over twelve years of experience flying the Glacier, who can you trust?

As it turns out, he was right.  We took off from the lodge around 10:45 under mostly clear skies and very light winds.  The 10-15 minute flight out to the glacier was breathtaking.  We flew around and over mountains before reaching the glacier.  Once we were there we circled around a portion of the glacier while Mark enthusiastically shared some of his vast knowledge of the history, geography and geology of the area.  We made a soft landing near the largest of the crystal clear glacial pools.  On our 15-20 minute walkaround we learned more about the geology and how the pools form, flow and eventually drain.  All the while, new pools are forming to entertain future travelers to this 26 mile long, 4 mile wide glacier.  Not only was it great seeing the glacier up close, we also spotted moose, dall sheep and mountain goats along the flight.

Ready for take off!

The dark area in the middle are rocks that have been crushed and pushed up to the surface forming the spine of the glacier.  

Amazing 360 degree views from the air.

According to Mark most of the glacier pools are around 100 feet deep (although some go much deeper).  They eventually drain leaving large holes for ice climbers to enjoy.



The waterfall to the right of Beth is about 30 feet high.

Before returning to the helicopter Mark and I took a few minutes to skip a few rocks across the glassy, smooth and very cold water.  Not surprisingly, I lost the rock skipping contest to a more experienced skipper.  I took solace in knowing, that for what will most likely be the only time in my life, I was standing on a glacier in Alaska skipping rocks into a 100+ foot deep glacier pool.  Second place isn't so bad!  

Gold and Silver Medalist in the Glacier Rock Skipping Contest.


We've now made our way to Valdez for a two night stay in a really cool tiny home (Airbnb).  Along the drive we were surprised when we passed by one of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve Visitors Centers (currently closed).  This national park was mentioned in a previous blog and is the largest of all our national parks (larger than the state of New Hampshire).  We didn't stay long but we did enjoy a nice overlook and captured a few photos as proof we had been there even if we only saw a minuscule bit.

Another National Park checked off the list.......
The tip of my finger is where we were in Wrangell-St. Elias.  The blue shaded area is the entire park.

The drive also took us over Thompson Pass, and then by the Worthington Glacier State Recreation Area which is still covered in deep snow.  Near Valdez we drove through Keystone Canyon, which is a deep canyon with numerous, massive, cascading waterfalls on both sides.

A few of the many Keystone Canyon waterfalls.......



This is the Railroad Tunnel of 1906, cut through Keystone Canyon.  According to historians, it was hand carved by nine companies to shorten the railroad route.  Before it was finished a feud with gunfire  erupted and it was never finished.


We did get out and roam around Valdez a bit last evening.  Although it was a little rainy and cloudy it seems like a beautiful area.  We enjoyed ice cream from the local ice cream shop (Northern Treats), while staring at the mountains and boats coming and going on Prince William Sound.  As we drove into town we spotted the first black bear that we've seen on this adventure.  I'm not saying we're getting accustomed to spotting bears, but when she saw it Beth kind of nonchalantly said "there's a bear".  While we were in town and enjoying our ice cream I got a notice from our Airbnb host that there were bears out between town and our temporary home.  We, along with several other cars parked and watched  a momma bear and her three playful cubs for around five minutes before they slowly (especially two of the cubs) made their way back into the thick woods. 

Our first black bear of the trip!

Momma and her cubs.  One is on the left, one is on the right and one is hanging closely behind.


Shortly we'll get out and explore this area, which is often referred to as "Little Switzerland".  Even though it's already a little after 9:00 AM, sunset tonight isn't until 10:44 PM.  I think we've got plenty of time. 

This was taken out a small window in our Valdez Airbnb at 3:10 AM.  The sun "sets" but it never gets completely dark at this time of year.


Thursday, May 20, 2021

Glacier View and the Sheep Mountain Lodge

Denali was looming large as we made our way south towards Wasilla!


The drive yesterday from Denali to Glacier View was similar to all our drives so far, very easy and very scenic.  The first part of the drive (Denali to Wasilla) was retracing our drive we made a few days prior.  Along this part of the drive Beth caught a brief glimpse of a wolf or coyote.  She made a quick turnaround, but by the time we got back to where she had spotted him, he had moved on.  For the sake of this blog, we'll call it a wolf.

The wolf, along with the Dall Sheep, that can easily be seen on the mountains behind where we are staying (Sheep Mountain Lodge), mean that she has seen all of "Alaska's Big Five" (Bear, Caribou, Wolf, Moose and Dall Sheep).  Maybe we can find another wolf sometime before we head to California next Tuesday (just to be sure).  As an added bonus, the weather was clear for the drive.  This meant that we often had great views of Denali as we made our way south.

Near the Talkeetna Junction (southbound on AK-3).  Most of the ice has melted, summer is on the way.

We stopped briefly in Wasilla to pick up a few groceries.  We also enjoyed a picnic in Newcomb Park, which is located on the shores of Wasilla Lake.  While in Wasilla we didn't catch a glimpse of either Sarah Palin or Russia.  We did however get a kick out of watching several children playing waist deep, without hesitation, in the VERY cold waters of Wasilla Lake.  Just a month or so ago the lake was completely frozen over and people were enjoying ice skating and playing hockey on it.  I'm guessing they were true Alaskans!

The second part of the drive from Wasilla to Glacier View was along the Glenn Highway.  Glacier View is a very small (2019 population was listed as 220) census designated place, that as it's name implies, has a view of a glacier, the Matanuska Glacier.   This glacier is 27 miles long and 4 miles wide and is the largest glacier accessible by car in the US.  Unlike many glaciers that are decreasing in size, the Matanuska Glacier moves at less than one foot a day.  This means that it is being replenished at a rate that has allowed the termination point to remain close to the same spot for over 30 years.

The Glenn Highway............

..........the Glenn Highway again..........

........one last time!

The Matanuska Glacier..............

close up view of the terminal point of the Matanuska Glacier.


Matanuska Glacier

We're staying at the Sheep Mountain Lodge, which was originally called the Sheep Mountain Inn.  When it opened, it had one room (not sure how many it slept) to serve trappers passing through the area, and construction crews building the Glenn Highway.  Business must have been good, because in 1946 a two story structure with thirteen rooms was built.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Fast forwarding through numerous owners, a fire and rebuilding and expansion, it now has eleven cabins, a guest house, RV park, a restaurant and a wonderful hot tub.  The restaurant doesn't open until this weekend but they are offering room service meals.  Last night we enjoyed some amazing bruschetta and triple berry crisp.  The triple berry (strawberries, raspberries and blueberries) crisp was voted the "best baked dessert in Alaska" by the Food Network.  We can attest to it living up to it's recognition.  We dove into it so quickly that we didn't get a picture, but fear not, we've already ordered more for tonight.  Hopefully we can practice enough patience for a quick photo before diving in!

Hosting trappers, workers, and travelers since 1942!

Our home for two nights!

Sheep Mountain Lodge

In 2015 Mark and Ruthann Fleenor purchased the Sheep Mountain Lodge.  We enjoyed visiting with Mark briefly at check in yesterday.  He is both a helicopter and fixed wing pilot............weather permitting there could be some adventures in the air later today or tomorrow morning!  

Taken from our porch........

Weather's clearing!