Barcelona and beyond…..

No trip to Barcelona would be complete without checking on the construction progress of La Familia Sagrada…..it’s getting closer to completion, but they’re not quite done yet!

When it comes to large cities, Barcelona has ranked at or near the top of the list for us.  Barcelona is located on the Mediterranean Sea in the northeastern (Catalonia) region of Spain. Its history dates back over 2,000 years.  It has close to 1.7 million residents within its city limits, and a metro area of nearly five million people.   It’s the countries second largest city, falling behind Madrid, which is first. Barcelona is the fifth most populous in the European Union.  Although this visit was short (around 24 hours), we saw or experienced nothing that would change our opinion of this really fun city.  

We arrived by train from Paris into Barcelona Sants around 4:30PM yesterday (Friday, May 17).   It was about a 2.5 mile walk from the station to our hotel.  Normally that would call for an Uber or taxi.  However, the weather was pleasant, and we travel light,  so we walked. 

With our time in Barcelona limited there was no need to unpack, so after a few minutes we set out to explore and enjoy as much as we could for the evening.  Our hotel was in the gothic quarter which is our favorite place to stay.  We had a nice time reminiscing about previous trips as we roamed the small side streets and passages.  We finished the day with a wonderful tapas meal at Nou Cellar, which came highly recommended by Ed and Judy.  They not only know the food scene in Paris, but in many places, and they’ve never steered us wrong.  

The Cathedral of Barcelona in the Gothic Quarter

Nou Cellar is located on a small passageway in the gothic quarter.  Even with google maps it’s a little hard to find, but it’s well worth the effort! 

As usual we were up early. However, unlike most mornings we were out quickly instead of our usual “get moving gradually” routine.   We walked to, and along the Barcelona beachfront,  before turning back to check on the progress of quite possibly the world’s slowest construction job, La Familia Sagrada.  Construction of the church began in 1882,  and it’s been a “work in progress” pretty much ever since that time.  It’s been announced that it will be completed in 2026…..but don’t hold your breath!

Strolling the beach early!

Still “under construction”…..modern on one side…..

….more traditional gothic style on the other side

Barcelona’s smaller but also impressive 
Arc de Triomf

We divided this eight week adventure into four phases. The first was the transatlantic cruise from Ft. Lauderdale to Lisbon, and the 4 nights in Lisbon.  The second was the cruise from Lisbon to Southampton, UK. Phase three was the land portion that included London, Amsterdam, Paris and Barcelona.  In about an hour we’ll start the final phase, when the Norwegian Pearl sets sail.  We’re actually doing two, nine day, back to back cruises.  The itinerary is below.   Bon voyage!

Paris……

Gelato in Paris with good friends will surely put a smile on your face! 

It was an easy few hours on the train from Amsterdam to Paris, and then it happened again!  Not to be outdone by Beth’s pickpocketing experience in Lisbon, it happened to me at the Paris train station!  Dang!

We had gotten off the Eurostar train and were rushing to get on a crowded regional train when it happened.  The train doors were about to close and Beth was already on board.  Three very kind “young men” (aka expert pickpocketers) helped me on.  I said a quick thanks to them. As the doors were closing they hopped off and I knew I’d been had. 

We had put together a double secure plan to avoid this type of incident, but in the rush to buy the regional train tickets, find the right platform and get on the train we had failed to fully execute the plan!  Fortunately like in Beth’s case it was more of a pain in the butt than a loss of valuables.    There was no cash, one credit card that we locked immediately and our drivers licenses.  I had forgotten about a debit card until I got an “unusual activity” message about a hour later.  I got the card deactivated quickly, but they had attempted to purchase things from a couple of stores, as well as some sushi!  I’m not sure if they got the sushi or other merchandise.   Thankfully there was no liability on us for their shopping spree.   

The moral of the story is be more vigilant than you think necessary, stick to your prevention plan and don’t get distracted.  As for the thieves, I bear no ill will towards them.  Now, if they fall on the train tracks…….??

The incident did put a little damper on the start of our time in Paris, but that went away quickly thanks to our wonderful friends and hosts for three nights, Ed and Judy Laue. 

I worked with Ed for a number of years in Texas.  He was a physician, then Chief Medical Officer at the hospital. Judy was a professor at Southwestern Adventist University.  They’re both retired now and split time between their Paris home and their place in Texas.  They were gracious enough to invite us to use their place, and we were thankful that they were going to be there during our visit. It gave us an opportunity to renew our friendship and to have expert insider information on Paris at our disposal.  

We enjoyed exploring their quaint neighborhood filled with small shops, restaurants, and being Paris, wonderful pastry shops.  About ten steps out the entry of their home you’re staring at mouthwatering pastries and freshly baked baguettes. Take another few steps and you have to make a choice between a plethora of flavors of gelato! Early morning trips to the pastry shop became a morning ritual. To borrow a line from an old commercial, “it doesn’t get much better than this”!  When it came time for our first evening meal, Judy ventured out and returned in a matter of minutes with fresh pasta, vegetables for salad and baguettes.  She put together an amazing feast.

So many good things right out the front door!

The street from the balcony

We hadn’t spent too much time in Paris on previous travels, so the next morning we were anxious to get out and explore a bit.

Paris, with a population of over 2.1 million residents, is the fourth largest city in the EU.  Similar to London, the city has historically built out more than up, and covers more than 41 square miles.  It’s been known for centuries as a world leader in commerce, finance, culture and much more.  It earned its nickname as the “City of Lights” for its elaborate street light system that was ahead of its time.  There is a buzz around the city right now as it prepares to host the 2024 Summer Olympic Games.  

Countdown to the 2024 Summer Olympics

In spite of its size, many of the most popular attractions are concentrated within a few miles of each other, mostly along the River Seine.  Just a short 25-30 minute walk from Ed and Judy’s is Luxembourg Gardens and Palace.  The palace was completed in 1645 and served as the  residence of King Louie XII.  Since the 1800’s it has served as the senate chambers for the country.  Surrounding the building is the 24 acre gardens, which include a large fountain, play ground, tennis courts and plenty of benches and chairs for relaxing.

Out and about near Luxembourg Palace

Luxembourg Palace

From Luxembourg Gardens we meandered towards the Cathedral of Notre Dame.  In April, 2019 the massive cathedral was severely damaged in a fire.  Efforts to restore the church started shortly thereafter, and while there is still work to be done, it seems to be progressing nicely.  From what we heard, restoration is scheduled to be completed by the end of the year.

There’s a lot of scaffolding up there, but the progress is good.  Thankfully there was minimal damage to the huge rose window. 

After leaving Notre Dame we made a mistake (no, we didn’t get robbed again), we turned the wrong way.  This mistake turned out to be a good one!  We ended up at the Jardin of Plantes (Garden of Plants), France’s oldest and largest garden.   The garden was originally developed in 1635, and has been recognized for its large collection of medicinal as well as flowering plants.  The gardens are free to the general public, although there are fees for some of the museums and zoo around the garden perimeter.

The Garden of Plants

We spent so long enjoying the gardens that we had to make a change of plans.   Instead of walking we used a “hop on-hop off”  boat, which gave us the opportunity to spend some time walking up the Champs Elysees toward the Arc de Triomphe, as well as stopping at the Eiffel Tower before meeting Ed and Judy for dinner at one of their favorite falafel places in the Marias neighborhood. It was every bit as good as we remembered from a previous visit, also made from their recommendation.

The Arc de Triomphe

Business was good on the Champs-Elysees

Us and a somewhat famous tower

L’as Du Fallafel…..just as good as we remember it. 

For our last day full day, we ventured out to the Palace of Versailles, which quite possibly may be where the phrase “it’s good to be King” originated.

What started as a hunting lodge for King Louie XIII in 1623, evolved into a massive palace and grounds for Louie  XIV and future kings,  up until the French Revolution.   Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that hosts about 15 million visitors per year, which makes it one of the worlds’s most visited places.  The palace and the grounds were absolutely spectacular.  We were so happy to have two experienced tour guides with us, or we would have never gotten back to the Petit Trianon which was Marie Antoinette’s hideaway at the back of the grounds. Beth referred to it as “Marie’s she-shed”…….it was quite a she-shed and quite a day.  

Palace of Versailles….

The Hall of Mirrors.  Because every palace needs a banquet room that’s close to 100 yards long. 

The main garden and grove behind the palace 

Inside the Petit Trianon-Marie Antoninette’s hideaway…..eventually the masses turned on her and like Ann Boylen, it didn’t end well!

Having expert tour guides and an excellent driver allowed us to see much more of the grounds than we would have otherwise seen.  Golf carts, bikes and even a small tram are available to tour the large grounds. 

Our three days in Paris passed quickly.  We loved the exploring, the food, the laughter and the fellowship with two wonderful friends!

Amsterdam….

The Seven Bridges Canal

The land portion of this particular adventure includes spending time in London, Amsterdam, Paris and Barcelona.  We’re traveling from place to place by train which is easy, economical and fun.  We bought a four day Eurail pass that gives us four days of unlimited rail travel within a thirty day period.  On Sunday morning we left London, heading for Amsterdam.  Five hours, four countries (England, France, Belgium, Netherlands) and one Chunnel later we arrived in Amsterdam.  Our hotel (Kimpton Dewitt using rewards certificates) was just a short ten minute walk from the Amsterdam Central railway station.  

Amsterdam is the capital and largest city in the Netherlands.  The city, which has 165 interconnected canals has around 900,000 residents.  It’s estimated that the bike to people ratio in Amsterdam is 1:1, although our guide on a canal cruise strongly disagrees.  She feels that there are way more bikes than people, citing that she has three bikes and all of her friends have multiple bikes.  It’s not easy, but we managed to dodge bikes for two days without getting hit, or as best as we know, causing an accident.  We came to the conclusion that she’s probably right, there are way more bikes than people.  Bikes are readily available for rent. However, renter beware…….unless you’re really good, limit your riding to one of the many parks out of the city.  

A single bike parking spot is the exception…..

This is a more common bike parking spot! 

Next year Amsterdam will be celebrating its 750th anniversary as a city.   According to what we heard, plans for a huge celebration are already well underway.  Given its reputation as a city where pretty much anything goes, I’ll bet it’s going to be one heck of a celebration. 

Without a doubt Amsterdam’s most recognizable feature is its many canals, which has earned the city the nickname “Venice of the north”.   Our canal tour guide shared with us that the freshwater canal system was dug by hand.  She said the canals were about three meters deep.  She claimed there was a meter of mud on the bottom, a meter of water on the top and a meter of old bikes in the middle.  Probably only a slight exaggeration.   

After averaging around ten miles of walking per day during our four days in London, we took it pretty easy Sunday afternoon.   We enjoyed lunch at an outdoor canal side restaurant and roamed the city center for a while.  We did visit the Anne Frank House, which is located on a canal near the city center.  We purchased a ticket that provided an introductory program followed by a self guided tour through the small area where the Frank family and four others hid for over two years. The introductory program was presented by a high school history teacher who did a great job.  The tour of the house was also very interesting. Purchasing tickets in advance is a must and they sell out quickly.  Approximately 6 weeks before your arrival check their website. They open slots six weeks in advance and they are generally sold out within one or two days.  

Of course throughout the afternoon when we saw a good bench sitting opportunity we made the most of it.

Statue of Anne Frank near the house.  Photographs are not allowed inside the house.

We woke up Monday morning, and with a few recommendations from the hotel staff set out with a pretty ambitious game plan for the day.  First up was a one hour canal tour.  There are multiple vendors that operate from near the train station.  Based on the hotel staff recommendation we used Flagship.  The cost was 22

Euros (drinks were available for an additional fee).   The staff were all friendly and helpful, and the narration, which was in English was informative without getting bogged down to heavily with lists of city facts. 

  Canal Boat Tour.  The young lady on the right provided the narration and is the proud owner of three bikes!

These are called the “dancing houses”. It’s not an optical illusion, they are crooked due to settling of the marsh land that are built on.  The houses are narrow because the residents were taxed based on the frontage width of the house.    Many of them are pie shaped and are wider the further into the house you go.  Stairs in the houses are steep and narrow. Furniture and appliances are often hoisted up a pulley and through the windows. 

After the canal tour we enjoyed a one hour walk towards the Albert Cuypstraat Street Market.  We then went on to

Vondelpark, which is Amsterdams largest and most famous park.  The market, which operates every day of the week except Sunday, was several city blocks long and offers a wide variety of food, drinks, clothes, shoes, and in true Amsterdam style, marijuana based products.  The receptionist at the hotel told us we had to get a Rudi’s Stroopwafel.  She said you can’t miss them, just look for the line.  We saw a line and sure enough it was Rudi’s.  The line moved quickly and soon we were enjoying two wafer thin waffles filled with gooey caramel and covered in chocolate. 

Rudi’s………

A hot and fresh stroopwafel!

Our final destination of the day was Vondelpark, which was about a thirty minute walk from the market.  Between the market and the park we passed through the museum district.  It would be easy to spend a whole day in this area admiring the works of famous artists such as Van Gogh and Rembrandt (both had lived in Amsterdam), but that day will have to be for another adventure sometime in the future.

Rijksmuseum 

Van Gogh Museum

We loved our time in the 120 acre Vondelpark.  We were amazed at how busy it was for mid-afternoon on a Monday.  Later I read that the park has over 10 million visitors per year……..I guess that explains it!

One of the many lakes in Vondelpark!

A couple of interesting things we learned about the park; it contains one of only 300 Picasso statues (The Fish).  In 2008 the city council ruled that is was ok for adults to have sex in the park (yep, you read that right).   There were a couple of stipulations.  First, it couldn’t be near a playground and it should be at night!  Ironically at the same time the city council chastised dog owners, proclaiming that they had to do a better job controlling their pups.    I guess they were concerned that a couple engaging in the big act might have their “kibbles and bits” chewed on by an out of control dog!

The Fish!

Thankfully we didn’t see any dogs out of control or love making going on.  We just saw a bunch of folks ranging in age from young to old enjoying a beautiful afternoon in an amazing park in a really nice city!

It’s on to Paris…….

Out and about in the outskirts of London….

 

Hampton Court Palace!!

 It’s a little hard for me to comprehend everything about the British monarchy.  One thing that’s easy to understand about it is that it’s a big revenue producer for the UK.  It’s estimated to bring in around 2.5 billion dollars in direct revenue per year and many times more than that in indirect revenue.  It’s big business and right now business is good!

For our last full day in London we broke out of the routine of roaming around in the morning/early afternoon, followed by a play in the West End,  before meandering back to the hotel near sunset.  We had two destinations on our agenda that were located in the outskirts of the London metropolitan area and both involved “Royalty”.

Our first destination was Hampton Court Palace, which is about a thirty minute train ride from Vauxhall Station.  After talking to a very helpful gentleman at the train ticket counter we decided our best option was an all day train pass for the local trains, buses and the underground (aka “The Tube”).   

Hampton Court Palace was the residence of King Henry VIII back in the 1500’s.  It is in the registry of “Historic Royal Palaces” that are no longer being used by the Royal Family.  That’s a fancy way of saying it’s been turned into a tourist attraction.  

While reading a little bit about the history of Hampton Court, I learned that originally it was built and owned by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, who was King Henry VIII’s Chief Minister.  Cardinal Wolsey felt he was falling out of favor with the king so he gave him the palace.  I’m not sure, but maybe this was when the phrase “it’s good to be king” originated.  Henry accepted the very generous gift and the huge residence and grounds became the kings.   He lived there with his numerous wives and mistresses (sometimes at the same time) throughout his life.   His most famous wife was Ann Boylen, who seemed to be somewhat outspoken.  Henry ordered that she be arrested for treason.  She was taken to the Tower of London and her head ended up in a basket, disconnected from her body!   

A nice gift from the cardinal to the king!

These days the beautiful grounds and palace are more tranquil and a popular place for both locals and tourists to visit.   There is normally an admission fee that includes the palace and the grounds, but several times per year the grounds are open for commoners like us to visit free of charge.  We were fortunate that our visit was on one of those weekends, and we were able to enjoy the grounds free of charge!  I’m sure the inside of the palace is nice, but we’ve been in a few palaces in our lifetime, and on a beautiful Saturday morning we were very content to simply wander around, stopping frequently to sit and imagine what it must have been like back in the 1500’s when King Henry was ruling the roost.

A great bench for imagining what it must have been like in Henry’s day!  The trees are “yew Trees” that are over 300 years old.  

After a few hours we took the train back into the city, getting off at the Waterloo station, which was easy since it was the end of the line.  We could have taken a train directly to our afternoon destination of Kew Gardens, but we opted for a more scenic option of a ninety minute cruise from Westminster Pier.  The boat ride was “non-narrated”, but the captain provided very colorful and humorous narration the entire journey.

On our way from the Waterloo Station to Westminster Pier we stumbled on an amazing international food market.  Thankfully we had enough time for a little lunch!

Rolling on the River!

Rowing races were going on along the river.  We passed along the four mile course where the annual Oxford vs. Cambridge race is held.  

Like Hampton Court Palace, Kew Gardens is tied to “Royality”.   The 330 acres garden, and glass growing houses, are managed by the Royal Botanical Gardens and contain the world’s largest collection of plant species.   We quickly toured the glasshouse gardens, which closed at five.  After seeing them we slowed the pace for several hours and enjoyed the Japanese Gardens, Treetop Walk, Lake crossing, and much more before taking the train back to the city center.  We made it back to the hotel as the sun was setting.  

Below are some of our favorite Kew Gardens pictures:

We loved both our days in the city as well as our day exploring a few areas outside the hustle and bustle of the city center.   There’s so much to see and do in this magnificent European city where the Royal Family continues to entertain and amuse.

London street wisdom!