Thursday, October 27, 2022

Ouray in October...........Green, Gold and White

September 29 along the Riverfront Trail.

We checked into our Airbnb in Ouray on September 28.  In two days we'll be checking out.  We'll be leaving the Silver Bullet at the Montrose/Telluride Airport and flying back to Florida.  It's been a really fun month of exploring Southwest Colorado, on our own, as well as with some family and friends.

October is a great time to visit Ouray and the surrounding area.  It's a time of transition that would be impossible to capture in words.  Here's some pictures from the past month as Ouray goes from green to gold to white.......enjoy!

Sept. 30........from the balcony of our Airbnb.  There was a light dusting of snow at the higher elevations.

October 3..........Cascade Falls is just a few blocks off of Ouray's Main Street

October 3.........The Riverfront Trail.....Green turning to Gold

October 5.......At a higher elevation just outside of Ouray

October 5............Box Canyon.......judging from his cheeks he's storing up for winter!

October 6.........Gold is overtaking Green

October 10.........that's Cindy on Ouray's Perimeter Trail

October 12..........From the balcony

October 13.......the daily scrabble games have been intense.  We enjoyed playing on the balcony until the afternoon temperatures began to drop.


October 16..........The Riverfront Trail was pretty much at peak color on this day

October 20.......we talked Pam into joining us for a game of scrabble in Fellin Park.  By the time the game was over it was getting chilly!

October 23...............the snowfall in Ouray was picking up!

October 24..........it had snowed most of the day.  The ballfield at Fellin Park was now covered with snow.  By my very unofficial way of measuring snowfall (sticking my hand down in it on the hood of the Silver Bullet), it was about 6 inches deep.

October 24.........perfect weather for soaking in the hot springs!

October 24...........now we're talking!

October 24.........the sun is setting behind us, but it made for great color over the mountains to the east.

October 26..........another heavy snowfall in the morning.  By the afternoon it was sunny and in the high 30's so most of this had melted.

October 26.............this guy was walking down the road enjoying the site of the freshly fallen snow!

October 27.........it had snowed pretty heavily overnight.  We woke up to find the Silver Bullet under another blanket of snow.

October 27.........from the balcony this morning.  More snow is forecast for throughout the day.  I hope we can make it to the hot springs!





Monday, October 24, 2022

The San Juan Skyway.............

The Canyons of the Ancients National Monument Headquarters and Anasazi Heritage Center is located in Dolores, Co just a few miles off the San Juan Skyway


The San Juan Skyway is a 236-mile loop road in Southwestern Colorado that passes through the heart of the San Juan Mountains.  The route is often times referred to as "scenic" and "historic".  There's certainly no argument with either of those terms.  The scenery is magnificent as the route winds through the old mining and historical towns of Ouray, Silverton, Durango, Cortez, Telluride and Ridgway.  Additionally, it passes the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park and is just a few miles from the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument Heritage Center.



San Juan Skyway

During our time here in Ouray we've been on the San Juan Skyway a number of times and covered the great majority of the loop.  The only section we've missed is a 33-mile section between Durango and the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park.  I guess that gives us something to look forward to on a return visit!

We've enjoyed the Ouray to Silverton and Ouray to Telluride section twice during our stay.  Last week we checked off the sections between Telluride and Cortez and Silverton and Durango off the list.  We enjoyed those sections of the Skyway as well.  Making it even more special, we were able to share most of that part of the adventure with some great friends from Texas, Rob and Pam.

Last Tuesday we packed an overnight bag in the Silver Bullet and headed towards the city of Cortez, 119 miles away.  We crossed Lizard Head Pass and by two of Colorado's fifty-eight 14er's (14,000-foot mountains), Mount Wilson and Wilson Peak.  We had packed a picnic of peanut butter sandwiches, but a food truck selling bar-b-que in the small community of Rico caught our eye.  Peanut butter sandwiches can wait when there's a chance for some good bar-b-que and it certainly turned out to be good!

Silver Creek Food Truck in Rico serves up large quantities of high-quality bar-b-que!

After lunch and before getting to Cortez we took a short, five-minute diversion off the San Juan Skyway to visit the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument Headquarters.  The Canyons of the Ancients actually covers more than 170,000 acres of land in the Southwest corner of Colorado, with multiple archaeological sites dedicated to preserving the history and culture of the native Americans that lived here for at least 12,000 years.  The Anasazi Heritage Center had films, maps, exhibits and displays that provided a great introduction to the area.

Inside the Anasazi Heritage Center

At the Anasazi Heritage Center there is a .5 mile trail to the McPhee Reservoir Overlook.  Due to both drought and the time of year there isn't much water in parts of the reservoir.

The Escalante Pueblo is located near the overlook


Canyons of the Ancients

We spent the night in Cortez and were excited about the next morning, when we'd be meeting up with our friends and visiting Mesa Verde National Park.  Rob and Pam have children (Ryan and Brittany) the same age as Ben and Sarah.  They played sports and went to school together, helping us form a long friendship that has lasted past the time we moved from Texas almost seven years ago.  They had flown to Durango, where Pam's dad has built an amazing home overlooking the city.  He was kind enough to drive them out to Mesa Verde National Park where we seamlessly reconnected.

We were thrilled to be joined by our longtime Texas friends Rob and Pam McNeely for a few days of adventure and catching up.

Mesa Verde National Park

We enjoyed catching up while visiting the national park.  It was my first visit to Mesa Verde.  Beth had spent some time there with her mother and sisters a few years back and Rob and Pam had visited the 52,000-acre park previously as well.  We toured the Cliff Palace, which is the largest cliff dwelling in North America.  It's an impressive site to tour and to imagine what life must have been like for the Pueblo people who made their homes there over 800 years ago.

Making a new friend inside the Mesa Verde National Park Visitors Center

It's easy to see why the Cliff Palace is considered the "crown jewel" of Mesa Verde National Park

The construction took place from approximately 1260-1280 AD

Approximately 150 rooms were built by hand, primitive tools, mortar made from water, sand, clay and ash and a whole lot of intensive labor!

In addition to the Cliff Palace there are numerous other dwellings throughout the park.  This is called the Window House.

Rob and Pam came back to Ouray with us, and we enjoyed three days of laughing, roaming around and of course soaking in the hot springs!

Hiking in Ridgway State Park

On Saturday morning we drove them back to Durango.  This time we traveled south on highway 550 (the Million Dollar Highway).  This section took us over the Molas and Coal Bank Passes on our way to Durango, the largest city on the San Juan Skyway loop.

Molas Pass between Silverton and Durango.......elevation 10,910 feet

We had a great time touring the very cool downtown section of Durango, as well as enjoying lunch at Steamworks Brewery.  We finished our time with Rob and Pam touring the house that Pam's dad worked so hard to build.  The home is great and the views from high above that overlook the town of Durango, the valley and the mountains in the background was breathtaking.

Downtown Durango and the Durango Farmers Market were very lively on a beautiful Saturday morning

Part Sasquatch-part human!

Along the Animas River in downtown Durango

The view from Pam's Dads property was amazing!

Durango, Co.

We said our goodbyes and made it back to Ouray before sunset, just as the winds were picking up and the weather was beginning to change...............    

Wednesday, October 19, 2022

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Silverton (again), Bumping along in the wilderness, Telluride, Owl Creek Pass, Ridgway State Park and a whole lot of soaking going on...........

We have company!  Beth's sisters Cindy and Debbie flew in from Florida for a few days........and then a few more.  Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park was just a few miles from the Montrose/Telluride Airport.  It was the first of many outings while they were with us.


When we booked our Airbnb in Ouray back in March, we invited Beth's sisters (Debbie and Cindy) to join us for a week.  We've enjoyed having them join us a few times in the past and were looking forward to them sharing part of this adventure with us.  There are no crystal balls when it comes to gazing into the future, especially the destruction that would be caused by Hurricane Ian in Florida on the same day they were supposed to join us.  

The airports were closed.  Their flights had to be rebooked, and for many storm related reasons we were all doubtful that they would be able to make it.  Thankfully after a five day delay, they were able to join us.  Initially it looked as if they would only be with us for four days.  However, thanks to oversold return flights they were able to stay for a full week..........and what a week it was!

The fun started immediately after we picked them up at the Montrose/Telluride airport.  Just sixteen miles east of Montrose is the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.  Beth, Cindy and Debbie had visited the park before on one of their "old lady trips" with their mother.  For me, it was my first time at this massive (30,750 acres), very underrated (around 300,000 visitors per year) national park.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

It's not completely accurate, but in many ways Black Canyon of the Gunnison is similar to the Grand Canyon.  It's a 2,700-foot, steep walled canyon that has been carved over millions of years by ice, cold, heat, wind, shifting earth plates and the Gunnison River that runs through the canyon.  We entered the park through the South Rim Entrance and stopped briefly at the Visitors Center for suggestions on how to make the best of our time.  The ranger suggested taking the seven mile long (one way) South Rim Drive.  She gave suggestions on overlooks with the best views, as well as where we might enjoy a picnic.  The ranger's suggestions were excellent, and we enjoyed a couple of hours in the park staring into the vast canyon.  It had been a really long few days for Debbie and Cindy, dealing with hurricane related issues as well as travel.  They deserved a good soaking, and we knew just the place for it!

Taken from one of the overlooks on the South Rim Drive

Painted Wall is one of the most popular overlooks on the South Rim Drive.  The Gunnison River can be seen on the left side of the picture.

Ouray Hot Springs

After a good soaking and catching up on some much needed sleep, our company was ready to go the next morning.  We were off to Silverton, ready to challenge Red Mountain Pass once again.  Unlike the visit to Silverton that Beth and I had made a few days earlier, the skies were clear and the temperature had warmed up.  There were numerous stops for pictures and simply gazing both coming and going, making it a full day adventure.  What's the best way to end a full day's adventure.........a good soak, of course!

Along the Million Dollar Highway between Ouray and Silverton

Cindy surveying Silverton's Main Street

On our way back from Silverton we stopped at Ouray's Box Canyon (sometimes spelled Canon) Falls.  Water from Canyon Creek flows down a 285-foot waterfall through a narrow opening in the rock.  

Box Canyon Falls

One of the activities that we were excited about was an off-road jeep adventure.  There are several companies in Ouray that offer these types of adventures and several tour options available.  You can rent a jeep or off-road vehicle, or you can go on an organized tour with an expert driver.  My off-road driving skills, especially in mountainous areas are non-existent.  Therefore, we booked with one of the local companies that were still offering tours (it's getting late in the season).  The company we used was Switzerland of America, whose office was just around the corner from our Airbnb.  

Switzerland of America

We were pleased to learn upon check in at the office that the four of us would be the only ones on the tour.  We were introduced to Jim, our driver for the day and were quickly on our way.  Jim was very knowledgeable on the history and geology of the area.  I'm not sure if any of us could pass a test now on all the knowledge that he shared, but it was a lot.  More importantly than the knowledge that he imparted was the fact that he was a very good driver who kept us safe as we bumped along the way for over four hours.  Of course, all that bumping along, and a little bit of hiking afterward lead to a good soaking in the hot springs that evening!  Are you noticing an "end of the day" pattern here?

Getting ready to head out.  We were happy to have such a knowledgeable and safe driver as Jim!
 
The roads were narrow, and it was a long way to the bottom!

The views were spectacular.  This is looking down into Yankee Boy Basin.
  
Cindy was in the back.  She leaned out the side to get this great shot.

Ouray's elevation is 7,792 feet.   At this point we had climbed to close to 12,000 feet elevation.

We had great 360-degree views from high above!

Cindy climbed into one of the old mine tunnels............we cheered her on from the jeep.

Also, on the agenda for while Debbie and Cindy were here was a visit to the town of Telluride, which is just over an hour away.  Beth had learned that the leaves in the Telluride area were at their peak color.  We really didn't think they could get any better, but we were wrong.  The leaves in and around Telluride were some of the best.  

A quick photo op at an overlook near Telluride

The leaves were projected to be at peak.........it's hard to disagree!


Telluride

One of the best things going in Telluride is the free thirteen-minute gondola ride that connects the town of Telluride and Moutain Village. There is an option to get off at an interim station (San Sophia) which gives you access to ski, hiking and biking trails.  From the Mountain Village you can also catch a shorter gondola ride to the Village Market.  They were free, so of course we did them all.  Gliding above the golden treetops was a constant photo op which Beth, Cindy and Debbie took full advantage of the whole way.  The gondola runs from early in the morning until late at night year round, with the exception of closing for a couple of weeks in the late spring and fall for routine maintenance.  It's a great way to explore the area and of course, the price is right!

The Telluride Weekly Farmers Market is every Friday from early June through early October.  This was the last day of the market for this year.

Farmers Market

Liftoff.........Cindy and Debbie on the Gondola

A view from the gondola.

At the Mountain Village Station

Skimming the treetops on the gondola

Telluride Gondola  

After all the exploring and picture taking, we had worked up a pretty good appetite.  We found a nice "cheap eat" (Cornerhouse Grille) less than one block off Colorado Ave., which is the main street through Telluride.  After eating we made our way back to Ouray..........in plenty of time for a good evening soaking!

The Cornerhouse Grille had a great selection of sandwiches and nice outdoor seating.

While we were waiting on our food at the Cornerhouse Grille we were entertained by this fella.  He was waiting quietly and patiently for his owner to return..............hopefully with a treat!

Colorado Avenue is the "main street" through Telluride


As we were leaving Telluride, we passed a large herd of elk grazing just off the road.


The Cornerhouse Grille

The following morning Debbie and Cindy packed up their things and we drove them to Montrose for their return flight to Florida.  It had been a fun and busy four days, but there was a glimmer of hope that the good times would roll for a few more days.  They had received notification that their flight might be oversold and that volunteers willing to give up their seats might be needed.  This is a game that we've all enjoyed playing with some degree of success in the past, although none of us have been very successful lately.

Our gameplan was to hang around Montrose until we received word from Debbie and Cindy to see if their seats were needed or if they'd be on their way back to Florida.  We were thrilled when they called and said they'd have a couple of extra days with us as well as a decent amount of voucher money for future flights.

Let the adventures begin again!  Owl Creek Pass


We swung back by the airport, threw their bags back in the Silver Bullet and were off for an afternoon adventure on the way back to Ouray.  This adventure had been suggested to us by one of the two brothers from Tampa who are staying in the Airbnb unit next to ours.  It involved driving the Owl Creek Pass, which is an unpaved road (but well maintained and popular) through the Uncompahgre National Forest.  Since we were already in Montrose, we expanded the drive to include visiting the 325-acre Silver Jack Reservoir.  One of the highlights of the drive, which was originally a cattle drive trail from the 1850's, was passing close to Chimney Rock and Courthouse Moutain which had been filming locations for the John Wayne classic True Grit.  

Silver Jack Reservoir is pretty dry right now.  This is a combination of a lengthy drought and the time of year.  
 
Cindy and Debbie were well camouflaged amongst the leaves
 
Overlooking Silver Jack Reservoir
 
Taking it all in.............

Along the Owl Creek Pass Drive

Chimney Rock is one of the most recognizable features of Owl Creek Pass.  Much of the John Wayne movie "True Grit" was filmed in this area. 

We took our time stopping frequently to take in the scenery, as well as take a few billion more pictures.  We enjoyed the afternoon drive on Owl Creek so much that by the time we got back to Ouray we were too exhausted to even head to the hot springs for our evening soak..............now that's exhaustion!

With our two bonus days with Debbie and Cindy we made the short drive to Ridgway State Park for an afternoon picnic and exploring the three separate and distinctly different parts of the park.  We also enjoyed just hanging around Ouray, and were thrilled to have some additional company when Wayne and Vickie Sallade drove over from their home in Grand Junction.  Wayne and I became good friends many years ago when we lived in Port Charlotte.  We shared a common interest in many things, especially sports, although when it came to college sports our rooting interests were very different.  Wayne is a proud alumnus of Florida State University and I'm a proud alumnus of the University of Florida.  Somehow, we managed to make it work and would frequently have lunch together back during the time we both lived in Port Charlotte.  Of course, with two bonus days, there were two more evening soakings! 

Cindy making friends at the fishpond near Ouray Hot Springs

The Ouray River Trail has become one of our favorites.

Modeling at Ridgway State Park

My construction project on the dry lakebed at Ridgway State Park

Finished!

Therre are three different entrances into Ridgway State Park.  The views are quite different from all three.

Debbie modeling at another section of Ridgway State Park

After finishing at Ridgway State Park, we visited the "Top of the Pines" near the city of Ridgway for more great views.  This is along the road up.

We had a great visit with the Sallade's including lunch at the Ouray Brewery

It was a fun week for Beth and I, and I think a nice week for Debbie and Cindy.  We were so glad that in spite of Hurricane Ian they were able to join us for part of our Colorado adventure.  Tuesday morning, we drove them back to the airport and this time when the planes doors shut, they were on board, heading back to the sunshine state.