Thursday, September 6, 2018

Changing right before our eyes!

Do you know what this is?
It's on display in the Museum of the North in Fairbanks
Can you find Beth?


Tuesday was our last day in Fairbanks.  It was a little rainy and chilly in the morning so we had to scrap our plans for a walk along the river.  We had a couple of other things on the agenda before heading out of town.  First up was the Museum of the North, which is located on the campus of the University of Alaska.  Once again we used our Alaska Tour Saver booklet, which had a "buy one get one free" coupon.  The museum was two floors with several sections per floor.  The second floor was mainly an art gallery with some interesting art ranging from traditional to modern.  None more interesting than the modern art piece which was a life size outhouse.  Outhouses are more than a non-functioning novelty item for many folks up here. They are a necessity that is used on a daily basis.  While the majority of Alaskan's have water and sewer in their homes, functioning outhouses are not uncommon.  Back in the 90's a survey indicated that around 12% of Alaskan homes did not have indoor plumbing, therefore an outhouse was used for the dirty work.  That percentage has dropped since then, but outhouses are still in use in Alaska more than in any other state (Kentucky and West Virginia were a distant second and third).  Up here their use is mainly because of the difficulty in running and maintaining water and sewer lines in remote locations.  Many of those in use around the state are customized by the owner(s).  Some are even heated, which would be appreciated on a night when the temperature is down around forty below and you're feeling the call.  So it was natural to have a large, very well decorated outhouse on display at the Museum of the North.
Here's a few photos of some genuine, working outhouses that can be found in Alaska




There she is!  Sitting on the throne in the outhouse on display in the Museum of the North!



The galleries on the first floor had a number of really interesting displays on the Athabaskan Indians and Alaska Wildlife, as well as the evolution of Alaska.  The university and the museum itself sits high up on a bluff providing a great view of Fairbanks.  With it's modern design, the museum is a work of art in and of itself.  A couple of hours visit would be well worth your time.

Fairbanks


We didn't dine at this fine establishment but I thought it was picture worthy!  
The Northern Most Denny's in the World


While in Fairbanks we were able to take in a couple of movies (Operation Finale & Searching) using our Movie Pass.  Both were watchable but neither left a lasting impression.  After our matinee movie I popped in some Dave Matthews tunes, pointed the car southward and we said goodbye to Fairbanks.  The challenge with Fairbanks is that it's pretty far north, so it takes some time to get there.  However, the drive is quite nice and there is plenty in the Fairbanks area to keep you busy for 2-3 days.
Our destination once we left Fairbanks was the Denali National Park area which was a little over two hours away.  There aren't too many roads up here so options for different routes are limited.  We didn't opt for the longer, different route so we drove to Denali on Highway 3, the same road we took from Wasilla to Fairbanks on Sunday.  
One thing we noticed as we made our way back was just how much change there had been in the leaves and groundcover in two days.  As I had mentioned previously, fall comes early up here.  It also comes quickly.  In 48 hours the leaves that were just starting to turn were now golden.  The same was true with much of the ground cover, which was now various shades of red, yellow and purple.  It was as if the transformation was happening right before our eyes as we drove along.  Fall is a great time of year and it's a spectacular site to see up here.
While in the Denali area we're staying at the McKinley Creekside Cabins.  It's a place we're familiar with from previous visits.  It's located about 10 miles south of the Denali National Park entrance and a place I would highly recommend.
Before heading into the park yesterday we stopped at the visitors center to get some recommendations on hiking trails. Much to our surprise we ran into some friends inside.  We had met a very nice young couple (David and Sophie) on the cruise a few weeks back.  They are from New Zealand and traveling for a year.  They've covered much of Europe, been across Canada and are now exploring Alaska before heading down the west coast of the US.  When we said our goodbyes at the end of the cruise we jokingly said "we'll probably run into you sometime in the next week or two".  Well, nine days after the cruise there they were in the visitors center!  We talked for a bit and heard about their experiences camping in Seward, Palmer and now Denali.  They even went to the Alaska State Fair.  However they were there one day before us.  They are now heading towards Fairbanks so the odds of seeing them again are slim, but who knows, stranger things have happened.

Sophie, David and Beth
If you ever need a partner for Flag Trivia David's who you want on your team!

We drove into the park as far as you can take a private vehicle (around 15 miles) and hiked the Savage River Trail.  The name sounds somewhat intimidating but the hike was actually a pretty simple and scenic two miles.  The flat, well used trail goes along the river bank for about a mile.  Then you cross the river on a footbridge and return to the trailhead along the other river bank. Later on we hiked the Horseshoe Lakes trail which was a little longer and had a little bit of elevation change but still fairly easy.  The lakes were crystal clear and the surface was as smooth as glass.  As we walked along the shore we had the reflections of the surrounding mountains on the surface of the lake to our left and the actual mountains on the right.  
We've got two more days in this area and plenty more to explore.  Denali National Park is actually 141 square miles larger than the state of New Hampshire and only slightly smaller than Massachusetts.  There's plenty to keep us occupied!   


Merrily making her way along the Savage River Trail.  You can see the return trail on the other side.

Savage River Trail

Savage River Trail Footbridge

A sled dog in the national park hard at work.  These are not sled racing dogs.  They are used to patrol the park and in a winter will usually cover over 3,000 miles.

Along the Hidden Lakes Trail

A beaver dam on the corner of Hidden Lakes

Hidden Lakes


Blogger at work at the McKinley Creekside Cabins

Tuesday, September 4, 2018

24 Hour Tourists!

Along the banks of the Talkeetna River with Mt. McKinley in the background


Before heading up to Alaska Beth was doing a little research on best deals.  If you know Beth, that certainly won't come as a surprise.  She's the CEO of this Traveling Idiot operation when it comes to planning and getting the best deals.  No matter where we go, as I look around, I know that very few,  if any of the other folks I see got as good of a deal.  Alaska has certainly been no exception, which is a good thing because it can be a little pricey up here.  If you are planning to visit this wonderful state and have some flexibility,  I would suggest you try to get here before Memorial Day or after Labor Day.  These are right around Alaska's "spring" and "fall", which as you can imagine being this far north, come late and early. You can avoid the biggest crowds and get better prices.
One thing Beth found that we have enjoyed is a discount booklet called "The Alaska Tour Saver".  It sells for around $100 and offers discounts in the form of "buy one, get one free" on top attractions throughout the state.  We've enjoyed using it at several places already and may use a couple of more coupons before we leave.  One other thing about the booklet.  If you are going to be visiting in the fall, wait until after mid-summer to purchase your tour saver book...……….they go on sale for fifty dollars!  Now who do you think figured that deal out?

Alaska Tour Saver

After the fried food fiesta of Saturday at the Alaska State Fair we headed further inland and up.  Our next destination was Fairbanks.  Fairbanks has a population of right around 35,000 people.  It and Juneau are about the same size and compete for the distinction of being the second largest city in the state (Anchorage is the largest).  Fairbanks has the distinction of being the "coldest large city in the United States".  Temperatures in the winter here frequently hover in the slightly subtropical -20 to -40 range.  This seems to serve as a source of great pride for those who live, or maybe more appropriately, those who survive here year round.
We took our time on the drive and enjoyed taking in the views.  As we made our way north the color in the leaves and groundcover began to change, signaling that fall was approaching.  We even added about 25 miles to the trip by taking a diversion off of Highway 3 to visit the village of Talkeetna.  This little village has only a few streets and less than 1,000 full time residents.  It's a very eclectic makeup of artists, hunters and fishermen, as well as people just wanting to live the good life, while being pretty darn close to being "off the grid".   We made it to Talkeetna around 10:00, which was before the first tour bus arrived.  We enjoyed breakfast at the Talkeetna Roadhouse and roamed around a few of the shops.  Most of the stores cater to the tourists and will be closing soon. A few such as Nagley's Store and the Talkeetna Roadhouse are open year round for residents and winter visitors.

Talkeetna Welcoming Committee

Biscuits and Reindeer Sausage Gravy...…..it'll put a smile on your face


Fall is beginning!

Talkeetna

The village sits at the confluence of the Talkeetna and Susitna Rivers.  We walked down to the shore line of these fast flowing waters.  Fortunately it was a clear morning and we had a great view of  20,310 foot Mt. McKinley (also known as Denali).  I'm not sure how far we were from the mountain, probably 50 miles or more, but on a clear, sunny morning it made for spectacular viewing.

Mt. McKinley is on the far right

We got to Fairbanks around 5:00 PM.  We checked into our hotel and thanks to the Alaska Tour Saver booklet began our "24 Hours as Tourists"!   First up was the Golden Heart Revue at the Palace Theater.  This one hour musical covered much of the history of Fairbanks, going all the way back to the gold rush days of the early 1900's.  There were four very talented actors and a piano player, that together lightheartedly sang and danced the history of this area.

The Palace Theater-Home of the Golden Heart Revue

The Palace Theater

Yesterday morning we continued our "touristy adventure" of Fairbanks, once again thanks to the Alaska Gold Saver booklet.  First up was a visit to the Gold Dredge 8.  This tour started with a brief overview of the Trans Alaska Pipeline.  It was followed by a train ride through an area that had been mined for gold back in the early 1900's.  We learned about the evolution of the gold prospectors who made their way to Alaska to stand along the creek beds slowly panning for gold, up to the more modern dredge that automated gold mining.  We even panned for gold the old fashioned way. As you can see from the pictures we struck it rich...………..well at least we found a little bit of gold (everyone does) that was valued at a whopping $13!  Touristy, yes!  Fun and educational, absolutely!

Cross section of the Trans Alaska Pipeline.  My hand is on a "dumb pig" which travels through the 800+ mile pipeline keeping the oil flowing.  "Alyeska" is the name of the company that maintains the pipeline.

Gold Dredge 8-It automated gold mining in the Fairbanks area

Prospecting for gold!

Another gold prospector!

Those are genuine gold nuggets in that vial!  OK, actually their gold flakes valued at $13 dollars!

The engine of the Gold Dredge 8 mine train

Doing my best to hold up the Trans Alaska Pipeline

Gold Dredge 8

After a quick lunch we were off to the next touristy adventure,  a ride on the Riverboat Discovery III up the Chena River.  This relaxing journey on an authentic paddlewheel boat rambled past million dollar homes and log cabins standing side by side along the bank.  We paused briefly for a float plane demonstration by a local pilot.  He told of the key role small planes play in Alaska by transporting people and goods between the many remote villages.  There was also a brief stop at the Trail Breaker Kennels for a little lesson on the sport of Dog Mushing.  The talk and demonstration was given by David Monson, who along with his late wife Susan Butcher owned the kennel, raising and training dogs.  In 1986 Susan became the second woman to win the Iditarod Trail Dog Sled Race.  She went on to win it in 87,88 & 90, making her only the second four time winner.  Sadly, she passed away in 2006 at the age of 51 (Leukemia).  Her husband continues to run the kennel and trains these amazing athletes.
The last stop was a walking tour of a Chena Indian Village.  The tour which was conducted by several young ladies of Athabascan Indian descent shared information on how this tribe survived for over 10,000 years in the harsh conditions of this area, as well as how they continue to embrace their culture today.  Touristy, yes!  Fun and educational, absolutely!

Riverboat Discovery III

Trail Breaker Kennels- A team of dogs are getting ready to demonstrate their pulling with the modified ATV (engine has been removed).  They can pull at up to 25 mph.

Interesting confluence of the Chena and Tanana Rivers.  The Chena is spring fed and clear, the Tanana is glacier runoff and very silty.

A fish wheel used by the Athabaskan Indians to catch salmon

Chena River Village

A monument to Granite.  Susan Butchers lead dog on her four Iditarod wins

She was a trainer/musher at the Trail Breaker Kennels.  She shared with us that during the summer the dogs eat around 800 calories per day.  When racing in the winter that caloric intake goes up to 15,000 (not a misprint) per day.  Their favorite temperature to pull the sled...……….around -40!

Riverboat Discovery

   

Monday, September 3, 2018

Who's shopping at Wal-Mart?

Me and the winner of the "Best Beard Under Six Inches" Contest!  He was a very nice young man who was quite proud of his beard and his state.


Our shuttle driver picked us up right on time.  The drive from the Alyeska Hotel to the Anchorage Airport was only around 45 minutes.  Most of the drive is along the Seward Highway and is quite scenic.  We had mountains out the left side and the tidal waters of Turnagain Arm on the right side.  As an added bonus we were able to spot a few Beluga Whales along the way.  These whales are fairly small by whale standards, with adults around 18 feet long.  They do not have a dorsal fin, they're white and they grab a quick breath and head back under water.  All of which makes them a little difficult to spot and when you do see them it isn't for long.
We picked up the rental car at the airport and were quickly on our way to Palmer and the Alaska State Fair.  We had a hunch it would be fun but little did we estimate what a treat it would be.  The sky was clear, the temperature was in the 60's, there was a 1471.5 pound pumpkin to be seen and it seemed as if all of Alaska and many folks from other parts of the world were wanting to see it.  It took us about 45 minutes to cover the last 4 miles or so before pulling into a parking space.  Once we were inside we were immediately greeted with a plethora of caloric delights.


Big, Fat and Fried!  What more could you ask for?

Not being shy we immediately dove right in.  First up was something someone we had talked to told us was a "must", pork chop on a stick, which ironically was located not far from the racing pigs.  Another popular item at the pork chop on a stick booth was fried cheese curds.  Well, if you have to wait in line for one thing, you might as well get them both at the same time.  We were off and running!

Pork Chop on a Stick!

Fried Cheese Curds.  I think the lady behind Beth is envious

Size wise the Alaska State Fair is smaller than other state fairs we've visited (Florida, Texas and North Carolina). However, when it comes to enthusiasm and pride it tops the list.  Crowds of happy people eating fried foods of all types while wondering through quilts, canned foods, decorated cakes, and art work by school children and adults.  They were watching demonstrations of the latest and greatest in cookware, knives, cleaning products and massage chairs.  As with most state fairs, the farm animals raised by members of the 4-H Clubs and school FFA organizations were a big treat.  Speaking of big, yes, a 1471.5 pound pumpkin is quite large.  As was the 50 pound cabbage, huge heads of lettuce, massive squash, zucchini and other vegetables.

1471.5 pounds of pumpkin.  You could get enough pumpkin pies out of that baby to supply Thanksgiving Pumpkin Pies to everyone in Deleware

A fifty pound cabbage!

We enjoyed watching a children's fiddling group while eating a bucket of crab cakes.  We sat on a bench and took in the sites, sounds and smells with a funnel cake.  We quenched our thirst with a blended mocha during the BMX bike stunt show and stuffed our faces with Kettle Corn (advertised as a "health food" that was high in fiber, low in fat and all natural) during the pig races.  Just to set the record straight, we weren't always eating.  We watched most of the "Best Beard in Alaska" contest and the entire one hour lumberjack show without food.  Boy were we famished when that show was over.  One funny thing about the "Best Beard in Alaska" contest.  There were different categories.  Two of the categories were under six inches and over six inches...……...that's getting a little personal!

A bucket of crab cakes!

There were some great beards...……..most of them on men.

Jumping over the sun while doing a flip...….impressive

This thing left evidence all over our clothes

I used to actually ride this thing...……...many, many, many years ago

We learned that a unique and longstanding tradition of the fair is face painting and hair art.  While it was mostly children, there were quite a few adults walking around with some fancy hair and faces.  Below are a few samples:





 After the second heat of the pig races we slowly made our way towards the car. We had a delightful afternoon of tickling the senses at the amazing Alaska State Fair.  As we drove towards our hotel in Wasilla we talked about our experiences at state fairs.  Although our sample size is only four, (Fla, TX, NC and now Alaska) they are great experiences that shouldn't be missed.  It gives you an excuse to eat a ridiculous amount of unhealthy food, cheer on racing pigs, and see strange looking chickens and rabbits.  But the most entertaining part of any state fair is just sitting back and looking at the interesting looking people in attendance.  It brought a couple of questions to my shallow mind. Where the heck do all these unique looking people come from and since they're all gathered together at the state fair, who is shopping at Wal-Mart today?  

Pig Races...……..loser goes down to the Pork Chop on a Stick Booth