Before the start of this adventure we really weren't very familiar with this part of Maryland. We had spent some time in the Baltimore area a few years back and really enjoyed it. We've only been here for a few days now and while this area is very different, we've loved what we've seen so far and are looking forward to exploring even more over the next three weeks.
One of the first things that we learned was that Maryland has a "panhandle". It's located in Western Maryland and consists of Washington, Allegany and Garrett Counties. The region is bounded by the Mason-Dixon Line to the north, West Virginia to the west and the Potomac River to the south. It's a much more rural area than the area around Baltimore and it lies in the central Appalachians so parts of it are quite mountainous (similar to North Georgia, North Carolina).
There is so much history in this area that it's really hard to know where to start, so I guess I'll start with where we are staying. Our Airbnb is located near the small town of Sharpsburg, which according to the latest census has a population of just under 1000 residents. Records show the house was built in 1841, which for comparison sake was four years before Florida became a state. Thankfully air conditioning and indoor plumbing have been added since it's original construction.
The house is located just a few steps from Dam #4 on the Potomac River, Beth and I start every morning with coffee and tea on the front porch swing listening to the water cascading over the dam. As a matter of fact, we eat practically every meal, finish every evening and spend most of the time we're here at the cottage sitting on that porch listening to the water flow. Between the cottage and the river is what remains of the C&O (Chesapeake and Ohio) Canal. This 184.5 mile long canal from Cumberland Maryland to Washington DC was built in the 1820's and operated until 1924. Although different goods were transported along the canal, the main cargo was coal from the Allegheny Mountains. The boats were pulled by teams of mules that walked along what is known as the tow path. As the boats made their way they passed through 74 locks. One of the locks is just a few hundred yards from our cottage, which is called the Lock Keepers Cottage. I'm not sure if it got it's name just because of it's close proximity to the lock or if it is where the lock keeper actually lived. I'm looking forward to learning more about the cottage and canal and passing that information along in future blogs.
Much of the history of this area dates back to the Civil War and several significant battles and events that took place nearby, but some of the history goes back even further. One of those places with historical significance dating back to the pre-Civil War time is Harpers Ferry, West Virginia.
Getting to Harpers Ferry was an easy 45 minute drive that took us on winding farm roads through fields of corn, soy bean and green pastures. From Maryland we passed into Virginia for about two minutes before entering West Virginia. Harpers Ferry is the eastern most town in West Virginia and was the northern most point controlled by the confederate army during the Civil War. It is at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers and if that's not enough, the Appalachian Trail passes through the town.
Harpers Ferry National Historic Park
Prior to the Civil War both George Washington and Thomas Jefferson had visited Harpers Ferry. Washington proposed that an armory be built in Harpers Ferry (construction started on the armory in 1799) and Jefferson, who must have been working for the Chamber of Commerce wrote that it was "perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature" and was a place he visited often.
In 1803 Meriwether Lewis made his way to Harpers Ferry with a letter from the Secretary of War authorizing him to pick up supplies for an upcoming westward expedition which would later be known as the Lewis and Clark Expedition. He gathered rifles, ammunition, knives, axes and repair tools as well as oversaw the construction of a collapsible iron boat frame. He later proclaimed this stop in Harpers Ferry as the most important stop in preparing the members of the expedition for their difficult journey.
While the Civil War didn't actually begin until shots were fired at Fort Sumter, SC on April 12, 1861, a significant event leading up to the Civil War occurred in Harpers Ferry in October, 1859. John Brown and 21 of his followers who were opposed to slavery staged a raid on the armory in Harpers Ferry. Their plan was to take control of the armory, arm the enslaved people in the area and spark a rebellion.
While they did take control of the armory for a short time, they were greatly outnumbered and unable to carry out their plan. Several of the followers were killed and most of the others, including Brown were captured. The captured were all quickly tried and executed. While Brown's plan failed, it did focus additional attention on the growing anger over the horrible practice of slavery and pushed the nation closer to what would become the Civil War.
Today Harpers Ferry is a small town with a population of around 500 residents. It is located within the boundaries of the Harpers Ferry National Historic Park which is operated by the National Park Service. The 4,000 acre park is actually located in three different states, Maryland, Virginia and West Virginia. The admission fee to enter Harpers Ferry is $20 per car. You have two options (the fee is the same with either option), a small parking lot in town or a much larger parking area at the visitors center. If you park at the visitors center, there are shuttle buses that will take you into the town. Personally, I think parking at the visitors center is the better and easier option.
In addition to the historical buildings, there are a few restaurants, shops and bed and breakfast type accommodations. Unless you plan on doing a deep dive into history or hike a bit of the Appalachian Trail a half day should be adequate to enjoy visiting this very scenic and historic park.
