Wandering Lisbon

The Belam Tower........guarding the entrance to Lisbon since the 1600's.  Somehow, we snuck in!

On Tuesday (March 28) we flew from Barcelona to Lisbon, Portugal.  We have stayed here in the capital of Portugal, which is also the largest city in the country (approx. 600,000), for five nights.  Today we'll board the Norwegian Sun and begin our nineteen-day journey back to Florida.  If you're looking to impress your friends and family with your incredible knowledge, you can tell them that Lisbon is Europe's western most capital city and the only one that is on the Atlantic Ocean.

Lisbon is often compared to San Francisco.  A few similarities between the cities are:

• They are both built on seven hills.
• Both cities have street cars, cable cars, and trams.
• Both cities have suffered major destruction from earthquakes.  Lisbon in 1755 and San Francisco in 1906.
• Lisbon's April 25 bridge and San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge look very similar in design, color and are actually the same height above the water (746 feet). 

Cable cars..........just one of the similarities between Lisbon and San Francisco

The flight from Barcelona to Lisbon was less than two hours and very easy.  We used a taxi to get from the airport to our hotel (Casas da Baixa) in the Chiado district of the city, which is conveniently located near the city center and just a 10 minute walk to the waterfront.  Our cab driver, who spoke very good English proudly shared a bit about his country and city on the way to the hotel.  He said the biggest challenge they are currently facing is that Portugal (especially Lisbon and Porto) are becoming extremely popular.  Many properties are being bought up by foreigners, which is driving up the cost for Portuguese citizens.  We told him we could relate and that certain parts of the US are experiencing similar challenges.  It's nice to be in a desirable place, but it comes with it's own set of challenges.  

We arrived late in the day and hungry, so we headed out to get something to eat.  We were pleased to see that there are numerous restaurants in our neighborhood.  From our hotel balcony I can see seven restaurants, and there are many more within a block or two.  We noticed an Asian restaurant across the street was just starting their evening service and that a small line had formed at it's door.  Asian sounded tasty and the line convinced us that it was probably good, so our choice of where and what to eat was quickly determined.  It turns out it was so good, that we went back a second time, the very next night!  Having now spent five nights here, we highly recommend the neighborhood. The hotel was wonderful in every regard, until the dance club below us stayed open until 2:00 AM on Friday and Saturday nights.  But then again, we tend to be heading for bed at about the same time the locals (young and old) are heading out for the evening.

The front of our hotel.  It is unstaffed and self check-in. There was a minute or two of confusion when we arrived and didn't know which room was ours or how to get in, but we quickly got it resolved and love the spacious accommodations!

From our balcony we can see seven different restaurants.......with many more just out of view.  Eating good in the neighborhood!

The red and white table cloths (left) is Pizzaiollo (very good pizza) on the right is Boa Bao the Asian restaurant we had enjoyed twice.  So many restaurants so little time!

Pad Thai Noodles with chicken

Steamed eggplant (excellent)

Amazing desert of pineapples, apples, chocolate spring rolls and vanilla ice cream...........because you can't live on steamed eggplant alone!

Sunset at this time of year is around 8:00.  We were heading in as most folks were heading out!

Boa Bao

Having spent some time in Lisbon before, our game plan for our visit was similar to that of Barcelona, wander around and enjoy as much of this historic city as possible.  Based on how our legs are feeling, I think we accomplished that goal.

Cascais

Our first full day in Lisbon we did venture outside the city a short distance.  We took the 35-40 minute, very affordable ($3.00 US roundtrip) train ride from the Cais do Sodre Transportation Center to the Monte Estoril station.  From there we walked along the seaside promenade to the beachside town of Cascais.  We enjoyed walking around the small, picturesque, laid-back community that is popular with both locals and tourists.  The train ride itself is well worth it as the train hugs the shoreline, first on the Tagus River and then the Atlantic Ocean.  For the best views, if possible, sit forward facing on the left side on the way out and forward facing on the right on the way back.  

Along the seaside promenade from Monte Estoril to Cascais.  It's around one mile and really scenic.

The beach at Cascais.  This was taken in the morning and it wasn't very crowded.  By the afternoon it was bustling.  The water temperature is still chilly so most folks were soaking up the sun and only a few hardy souls were in the water.

This is the Cascais Municipal Building.  It contains a library and there is a nice park behind it.

Lisbon's Market is directly across from the Cais do Sodre Transportation Center.  It's divided into two sections, a traditional market and a food court.  We saw a long like at one vendor so we hopped in.  They were selling beef croquettes that looked like Cuban stuffed potatoes, which we love.  Turns out the meet was pureed and there was no potato.   We may be getting older but we're not ready for pureed meat just yet.  We're still trying to figure out the attraction!

Beef Pho at Boa Bao.  We saw it on the menu the first night and wanted to try it.  It was delicious!

Along the Waterfront and in the City Center

After our venture out to Cascais, we spent the rest of our time in Lisbon, doing what we do best, wandering around, bench sitting and both enjoying and appreciating where we are.  The waterfront area is lively with cafes and restaurants along the way.  We really appreciate the laid-back approach Europeans in both Spain and Portugal have in terms of enjoying the moment.  We sat one afternoon at a popular waterfront cafe for well over two hours with a small pitcher of sangria visiting with a couple who will also be on the cruise.  There were no attempts to rush us out or order more, just relax and enjoy, it's all good!

The city center is located just a short walk off the waterfront.  There are numerous streets, with shops and restaurants.  Some of these are "pedestrian only" while at other times you're sharing the road with cars, cable cars and tuk-tuks.  Drivers are courteous and while you should never assume they're going to stop at cross walks, they are very good about it. 

Walking to Belam

Although we don't put in the same amount of miles per day as we used to, we still enjoy exploring by foot.  We retraced a walk from a few years ago that took us from the waterfront near the city center to the Belam Tower.  Most of this five-mile walk is along the waterfront and quite scenic.  It takes you under the April 25 bridge where you can get an interesting photo.  You can get a picture with the bridge and the statue of Christ the Redeemer across the river.  The bridge looks like San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge and the statue looks like  the Christ the Redeemer statue from Rio de Janeria, Brazil.  While Lisbon's bridge and statue are iconic in and of themselves, it looks like you have the two more famous ones from San Francisco and Rio in the same shot.  One note of interest:  Lisbon's Christ the Redeemer is actually a few meters taller than Rio's.

The April 25 Bridge and Christ the Redeemer.  A little San Francisco and a little Rio.

I'm not sure when it was erected, but this recognizes Portugal's Healthcare Heroes who served bravely during the pandemic.  It's located along the waterfront.

Near Belam there is a museum which offers great rooftop views.  This is going towards the Belam Tower.  

Once you reach Belam there are numerous interesting sites worth checking out.  These include the Belem Tower (officially the Tower of Saint Vincent), which was built in the sixteenth century as a fortification for the city as well as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for early explorers.  Also worth checking out is the Padrao do Descobrimentos which was built in the 1940's and made permanent in 1960 to commemorate the 500 year anniversary of Henry the Navigator's death.  I have to confess, I remember the stories of some of the early explorers, but Henry the Navigator isn't one of them.  Based on the size of the impressive monument, he must have been pretty good!

The Padrao do Descobrimentos in memory of Henry the Navigator.

The Belam Tower

Across the street from the Padroa do Descobrimentos is the Jeronimos Monastery and Cathedral.  You can access this area by an underground tunnel that connects the two areas.  The monastery houses a archeology and maritime museum and requires an entrance fee to visit.  Entrance into the Cathedral is free of charge and well worth visiting.

Outside Jeronimos Cathedral

 

The Monastery Towers

Inside the cathedral.  There is no entrance fee and it's well worth visiting.

In the old days we would have walked the five miles back to the city center.  That was then, this is now and we paid the $1.30 each and took the train.  We still ended up covering just under ten miles........not a bad day of wandering!

Pizza is always a good way to end the day.  This was from Pizzaiollo just steps from our hotel.

We've enjoyed listening to buskers (street performers) all over town.  We've been fortunate enough to hear some good ones.  Our favorite was the trio at the bottom left (the drummer got cut out of the picture).

For our last full day in Lisbon, we again enjoyed wandering around.  After a nice lunch at a small bar/cafe overlooking some of the city center we walked up the high tone Avenue de Liberdade.  A tree lined street with expensive shops on either side.  At the top of Avenue de Liberdade is Parque Eduardo VII.  The park is set high up overlooking Avenue de Liberdade and down to the waterfront.  We stopped for a bit before slowly making our way back to the city center and towards our hotel. 

Along Avenue de Liberdade!

 

Lisbon is full of monuments, plazas and parks!

Parque Eduardo VII, Avenue de Liberdade, and the Tagus River in the distance.

Inside the church of Saint Dominic.  Groundbreaking on the church was in 1241 and at one time it was Lisbon's largest church.  It was the site of numerous Portuguese Royal weddings.  It was damaged by an earthquake in 1531 and completely destroyed by the massive earthquake of 1751.  It was rebuilt completely.  In 1959 the church was heavily damaged by fire.  Although it has been restored, evidence of the fire can still be seen.  To further complicate the church's historical past in 1506 thousands of "New Christians" (previously converted Jews) were massacred by a Christian mob.  It was also the execution site of Gabriel Malagrida, a famous Jesuit missionary in 1761.

It's true confession time now.  Other than the croquettes we loved all the food in Barcelona and Lisbon.  However, last night we were really tired and meals are not quick over here.  There's a McDonalds just around the corner.  The Big Mac's were quick and tasty.

In a few hours we'll be on the Norwegian Sun.  It's a nineteen day crossing that will end in Miami.  There are nine ports of call.  Two we visited on the Enchanted Princess.  Most we've been to previously, but there will be a few new places to explore also.  We don't feel there is real value (for us) in purchasing an internet package on the cruise ship.  So don't look for another blog post for a couple of weeks.

Speaking of blog posts.  On March 27, 2016, I posted my first blog.  It detailed us selling the house, all our stuff and getting ready for retirement at the end of April.  This is blog number 698..........I can't believe it.  It's been an amazing journey with an incredible life partner.  We both feel so blessed and plan to continue our journeys for as long as possible. Whether you're a regular reader or just occasionally check in to see what the idiots are up to, thank you from the bottom of my heart.  I hope it provides some entertainment, information and maybe a bit of inspiration!

This was taped to a post in Cascais.  Good words to live by!

Wandering Barcelona!

 

Beth told the gelato artist that it was "too pretty to eat"........but it would have melted!

The amazing city of Barcelona is 39.2 sq miles in size.  That's a lot of territory.  While we didn't see it all, we covered quite a bit of the city over the past five days.  With the exception of the taxi from the ship, one funicular and one cable car it was all on foot!

Ready to get on the funicular.........

............that took us to the cable car which took us to Montjuic Park which overlooks the city and harbor.  Other than these two, our modes of transportation were our feet!

We were excited to get back here since we had enjoyed it so much on previous visits.  We disembarked the Enchanted Princess around 8:00 AM.  The daily activities of life start a little later in Spain and the streets were quiet as we made our way to the hotel.  We're early to bed, early to rise people and we often joke that in Spain they're just putting away the dinner dishes when we're getting up and going.

Our hotel is located in the Gothic Quarter of the city, just a few blocks off what is arguably Barcelona's most famous street, La Rambla.  This three quarters of a mile, tree lined street has a wide pedestrian path in the middle and is bustling with activity day and night (just not at 8:00 AM).  We were thrilled when the friendly person working the hotel's front desk told us our room was ready and we could check in early.  Shortly after dropping the luggage in the room, we were off to explore.

La Rambla on a sunny afternoon

We had a few things on the agenda for our five day stay.  Some were revisiting areas we had enjoyed in the past, as well as some new things we wanted to explore.  We also had a couple of places out of Barcelona we were interested in visiting (Montserrat and Tarragona).  Both of these would require a train ride to reach.  As it turned out, every day in Barcelona was so much fun that we never made it to either of them.  Thankfully we had visited the beautiful monastery in Montserrat in the past.  Tarragona will just have to wait.

Here's a few highlights of our five days in Barcelona:

Artist and Architect 

Over the years many notable people have called Barcelona home.  Two of it's most famous residents were Pablo Picasso, the world famous artist and Antoni Gaudi, whose works have left a lasting impact on the city.  

Picasso was born in Malaga in 1881.  His family moved to Barcelona in 1895.  He called Barcelona home on and off until 1904 when he moved to Paris.  He had numerous friends in Barcelona and visited the city throughout his life.  There is a small, but well worth visiting, Picasso Museum here in Barcelona that showcases much of his early work.  While none of his more famous paintings are here, it's interesting to see his transition from more "classical art" to the modern cubism that he is known for throughout the world.  

Picasso painted this when he was sixteen.  It's title is "Chairty".

He's more famous for his cubism paintings later in life.  I'm not kidding!

The famous architect, Antoni Gaudi's works have left an impression around Barcelona.  There are a number of his famous houses intermingled around the city, as well as his influence on the design of Parque Guell, which is now a huge city park.  His most famous work is actually still a work in progress, and that's La Sagrada Familia, the massive basilica that can be seen from many parts of the city.  Contruction on the basilica began in 1882 and became the driving force in Gaudi's life until the time of his death in 1926.  There have been periods where construction has been halted for various reasons (wars, finances and even COVID) but work is now continuing on the project and it is expected to be completed in 2026, some 144 years after it started!  In a unique way Gaudi continues to oversee the construction.  He's buried inside the church.

Parque Guell was an early attempt at urbanization.  It was supposed to be a housing development complete with streets, markets and green spaces and was designed by Gaudi.  Construction started in 1900 and ended in 1914.  It was a little ahead of it's time and never developed as visualized.  It's now a park.  There is a street above this structure and dry space underneath.

It was intentionally designed so there would be shelter underneath the road.

Open space was intentionally included in the design.

A couple of more shots from Parque Guell

This was supposed to be a market space with numerous stalls.

Gaudi's most famous work is still under construction.

It's one of, if not the most visited site in Barcelona.  This was late in the day and there were still large crowds.  We opted not to go inside on this visit.  There is an entrance fee (it's advisable to buy tickets in advance).  If you have never been inside, it's well worth the price of admission.

We're happy with the progress they're making!

Casa Vicens-Gaudi's first house in Barcelona

Casa Batilo and museum

Casa Mila is just a short distance from Casa Batilo

Sun and Fun

Barcelona is located on the Balearic Sea, which is a section of the Mediterranean Sea.  Although it does  get chilly (temps have been in the 60's to low 70's this week), Barcelona gets over 2500 hours of sunlight per year.  Mix the sea with the sun, throw in a bunch of sand and you've got some really nice beaches that are within walking distance of the Gothic Quarter.  Saturday was sunny and warm and it seemed like all of Barcelona was outside, with a large number of folks enjoying beach time.  We enjoyed walking past the modern Port Vell Waterfront Harbor which was lively with families and friends packing all the outdoor cafes.  The beach has a very nice promenade that extends for far longer than we were going to walk.  After turning around, we stopped for lunch at one of the many outdoor beachfront cafes and enjoyed watching some of the very competitive sand volleyball games before making our way back towards the hotel as the sun set.

It's probably going to be a sunny day in Barcelona.  Don't forget your sunglasses!

This famous statue of Christopher Columbus is located at the port end of La Rambla.  Cruisers often say he is pointing the way back to the cruise ships.  Barcelonian's will tell you he is pointing the direction of India, which was his intended destination.

Port Vell is a waterfront development that includes shops, restaurants, hotels and apartments.

Port Vell Marina......lots of sailboats and some HUGE yachts are docked here.

Beachfront promenade.......it was a beautiful sunny day but a little too chilly for my speedo.

We finished the day sitting in front of the Cathedral of Barcelona and enjoying a symphony band and groups dancing to the music.

Foodie Heaven

I'm not exactly sure what defines a person as a "foodie".  Whatever it is, I'm pretty sure that Barcelona could easily be considered "foodie heaven".  There are over 7,500 restaurants throughout the city, serving a wide variety of different cuisines from around the world.  Local favorites such as pastries, paella and tapas can be found everywhere.  You gotta eat, so you might as well eat good, and in Barcelona that's a pretty easy assignment!

La Boqueria Market is located just off La Rambla and is a must see.......

rows and rows of colorful foods of all types ranging from candies to.........

 ...........fruits and veggies..........to

..........meats and cheeses.  Much of which is "ready to eat"!

Not exactly a traditional Spanish dish.  Grilled chicken and steak but at least the sangria is traditional......

Chocolate and Churros!

Pallela at a beachfront restaurant.  This is "Mixed Paella" which includes seafood and meat.  We learned that there are regional variations of paella around Spain.  Our favorite so far is the paella in the Valencia area.

Patatas Bravas!  Similar to "home fried potatoes" with a special sauce on top.  Really yummy!

Tapas at La Tasqueta de Blai.  It's located on Carrer de Blai which according to Trip Advisor is one of the best streets for tapas.  

Thanks Ed and Judy!  The food at Mustafa's Donner and Grill was great!

Plenty to share!

Breakfast our final morning in Barcelona.  Banana and Nutella Crepes..........

Harvest Grain Banana Pancakes.................

................Cafe Con Leche

Getting Lost in Barcelona

Thanks to modern technology, getting lost in a city is pretty hard these days.  We were never truly "got lost" but we do love getting "lost" by simply wandering around, turning whichever direction we want to go without a real destination in mind.   We've always enjoyed traveling this way and we now seem to be enjoying it more than ever.  We no longer really need to see too many particular sites.  We want to experience where we are, and this magnificent city is perfect for doing just that.  In our five day stay, my i-phone tells me we walked over forty-five miles.  That's a lot of wandering and boy was it amazing!

NOTE:  Areobus is an easy and inexpensive way to get between the airport and the Gothic Quarter.  The link below may be of some help.

Aerobus