Yosemite National Park, Mount Tamalpais State Park and some amazing family time!

We were so happy to get to see this little slugger play two t-ball games!

We've been in California a little over two weeks and the fun has been so nonstop that I haven't had time to put together a blog.  We now have two special guests with us for a week.  That's for the next blog.  I've got some catching up to do before getting into those adventures.

Much of the time the first two weeks was spent enjoying time with Sarah, Joey, James and Emma Joy.  After spending the first night near the Oakland Airport, we picked up the rental car and moved to a hotel near Sarah's house.   The hotel had a swimming pool that we took advantage of everyday.  Due to covid protocols (California is moving VERY slowly on reopening) we were limited to using the pool for one hour a day.  On a positive note, during that hour we had the entire pool to ourselves.  James loves the water and is becoming quite comfortable swimming and doing cannonballs to splash water on MiMi and Pop.  Emma likes the water pretty good as long as she is being held by her mom or dad.  She likes Beth and I pretty well as long as we remain "socially distant".

In addition to "family time" we enjoyed visiting Mount Tamalpais State Park.  Mount Tam as it is commonly referred to is a 25,000 acre park in Marin County, just a few miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge.  The peak of Mount Tam is 2,571 feet above sea level.  Not massively high, but high enough to stand out as you drive along Highway 101.  

Mount Tamalpais State Park

There are miles and miles of trails of varying degrees of difficulty in and around the state park.  We took Sarah's recommendation of the Verna Dunshee Trail which is a flat, relatively short trail that goes completely around the east peak of of the mountain.  The beauty of this trail is that since it is located just a few hundred feet below the summit of the east peak, it offers great views of San Francisco, Marin County and much of the north bay area as you make your way around it.  Once we completed this loop trail we took on the short but much steeper trail to the fire tower lookout which is at the summit.  From the top of the Fire Tower Lookout we again had great 360 degree views of the surrounding area plus the satisfaction of knowing we had made it to the top.

Along the Verna Dunshee Trail on the East Peak of Mount Tam.

Great views all along the trail!

From the very top of Mount Tam. (Fire Tower Trail)

After spending seven nights at the hotel we moved to our rental home in Sonoma which is where we will be staying until we return to Florida on June 26.  The home is great for our needs and we really enjoy the back patio where we are entertained daily by a constant stream of hummingbirds stopping by to enjoy a little nectar from the feeder.

James enjoyed spending one night with us and after playing so hard at the Sonoma Plaza playground slept several hours past his normal "wake up time", sleeping all the way to 8:30!  Beth and I enjoyed babysitting Emma Joy one morning although we don't think she enjoyed it too much.  She was quite vocal about it for the first hour before finally slowly resigning herself that she was going to be stuck with us for a while.  She was happy to see her mom come to her rescue around noon and we were quite pleased that none of the neighbors had called child protective services to report a child that sounded in distress.

James enjoyed soaking MiMi and Pop with his Shark Shooter from Aunt Debbie and Aunt Cindy!

Emma Joy reading to me!

A little MiMi time!

James loved visiting Harvey's Donuts in Sonoma where he got to pick his own masterpieces!

We've spent quite a bit of time simply enjoying Sonoma, hanging around the plaza area, walking the Sonoma Trail and sampling a bit of fermented grape juice that makes this area such a popular destination.

Sonoma

Not being ones to pass up an opportunity to visit a national park we did venture out very early one morning for Yosemite National Park, which is located about three hours southeast of Sonoma.   After checking several times, the park either opened up some additional accommodations or there was a cancellation so we were able to book a rustic cabin (two beds, a chair, small chest of drawers, night stand, light and a shared bathroom/shower) for one night.  In spite of it not exactly being the Ritz Carlton, the bed was comfortable, the shower/bathrooms were clean and only about 20 yards away.  Going to the bathroom in the middle of the night wasn't too bad, just a little chilly and we didn't encounter any bears along the way.

An early start put us at the entrance to Yosemite not long after the sun came up.

Yosemite is over 1,200 square miles in size and is the fifth most visited of the 62 national parks.  If you're keeping score the top five are: Great Smoky Mountains, Grand Canyon, Rocky Mountain, Zion and Yosemite.  While the park was somewhat crowded, thanks to us going mid-week and summer not quite being in full swing, it was very manageable.  It wasn't our first visit to Yosemite, we had been there way back early in our marriage.  Beth had visited the park a little more recently on one of her famous "Old Lady Trips" with her mom and two sisters.

Yosemite National Park

In addition to miles and miles of trails and wildlife, it is known for it's sheer granite cliffs and spectacular waterfalls (they are snow fed so they dry up by mid-summer).  The most famous of the numerous granite features of the park is El Capitan, which from base to summit measures over 3,000 feet.  Men and women with incredible strength and endurance (but who in my opinion may have questionable mental fitness) can be seen hanging off the cliff with only a rope separating them from catastrophe.  While it is possible for some climbers to make the climb in one day, many take several days, meaning they spend the night suspended almost literally in mid-air a couple of thousand feet off the side of a cliff.  Beth and I enjoyed visiting with a very nice young lady who works for the national park service and is also an avid climber.  She has scaled El Capitan numerous times and on one climb spent eight consecutive nights snuggled up against the cliff.  She also told us that the oldest person to summit El Capitan was an 81 year old gentleman.  I guess I'd better get started training!

Early morning in Yosemite.......

The clear, cold Merced River in Yosemite

Yosemite Falls.  The water is snow melt from the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  By mid-summer the falls will be dry.

Lower Yosemite Falls Trail.  There are also trails to the upper falls, we took a pass on those!

We found a secluded picnic site along the river.

Tunnel View gives you three of the most iconic sites from one location.  El Capitan (left), Bridalveil Fall (Right) and Half Dome (Center).

To get to Glacier Point from Yosemite Village is about an hour drive but the views from there are amazing.  If you feel so moved you can take the Four Mile Trail which is rated as a strenuous 6-8 hour round trip hike............we drove!

There are several recommendations we would have for anyone visiting Yosemite.  They would include hiking to Mirror Lake (one mile each way on a mostly flat trail with an option of a paved multiuse path),  Yosemite Village, finding a picnic spot along the Merced River, and the views from Tunnel View and Glacier Point.  If at all possible, don't go in the summer when the falls are dried up and the crowds swell making the limited parking even more challenging. 

Along the Mirror Lake Trail..............

further along the Mirror Lake Trail...................

Mirror Lake was living up to it's name on this day.  Like the falls, the lake will dry up by the end of summer only to be replenished when the snow starts to fall late in the year.

Yosemite isn't the easiest national park to reach, but it's certainly worth the effort.  We loved our visit and hope to make it back.  I'll keep everyone posted on when I make my attempt to climb El Capitan..............that should make for quite a blog! 

One more view of Yosemite................

Alaska wrapup.........Girdwood and Gone!

A trail with a bench and a view in Girdwood!

After two fun and adventure filled weeks, we left Alaska five days ago (May 25).  We're now in California (aka The People's Republic of California), where according to Sarah the mantra related to the pandemic was "trust science" until science eased up the guidelines.  While the rest of the US is starting to open up aggressively, California has determined that the appropriate date is June 15.  We're here until June 26 so we'll be here to celebrate their new found freedoms, unless they decide something different between now and then.

We spent our last two days of our Alaska adventure in Girdwood.  This small resort community (pop. 1,749) is located about 45 minutes from downtown Anchorage in a valley surrounded by seven glaciers.  Girdwood is home to the Alyeska Ski Resort, which is Alaska's largest ski area.  Ski season has ended and the summer crowds haven't arrived yet.  This was our second time staying at the Alyeska Resort.  The last time was in the fall, after the summer crowds had left and before the ski season started up. 

Sometimes I am accused of repeating myself and as much as I would like to, I can't deny this accusation.  In an effort not to repeat anything about Girdwood or the Alyeska Resort that I have shared in previous blogs, I'm going to simply provide a link to those blogs.  Here's a few pictures and some tidbits of information that I haven't covered previously before I close out my Alaska blogs for now.

 August 29, 2018 Blog 

August 30, 2018 Blog

The Alyeska Resort in Girdwood

Glacier Creek near the small downtown section of Girdwood

Moose Meadows......we've looked for moose here on several occasions but haven't seen any in this location.............

............but we did see a mother black bear and her two cubs near the hotel.  Our total bear count for this trip was 15.  6 Grizzlies and 9 Blacks.

Dipping for smelt in the Turnagain Arm waterway.  Smelt are small, oily fish that are considered a staple to many native Alaskan diets.  They run in the spring at a time when food supplies are typically low so they are sometimes referred to as "resurrection fish".  Additionally, they are so oily that they can be dried out and used as candles so they are sometimes called..........you guessed it........."candle fish".

Alaska is truly amazing and we always leave looking forward to our next visit.  Our repeat visits were to Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali and Girdwood.  The new destinations were Homer, Sheep Mountain and Valdez. We look forward to seeing them all again.  The natural beauty, diversity and friendly people of the 49th state keep drawing us back for more.  

Here are a few random thoughts that you may find helpful if you're planning a visit to Alaska.

It's a big state, with the exception of Talkeetna, each place we visited should be given at least two full days if possible.  Talkeetna shouldn't be missed, but it can be done as part of a day trip or one night stay.

Enjoy the drive!  The roads are not crowded and the scenery is amazing.  Stop often to take in the views and breathe in the fresh air.  The journey is every bit as good as the destinations.

Pace yourself!  The sun rises early and sets late (if at all).  During the summer months the golf courses are open 24/7.  There's a midnight baseball league and so much more.  You'll still need to get some rest.  Many of the hotels and private accommodations have "black out" curtains.  Use them, they're your friend!

The weather can be tricky.  Although we were very lucky during our two weeks.  Bring layers of clothing and raingear..........you'll be glad you did!

If at all possible plan your visit before Memorial Day or after Labor Day.  The crowds are smaller and the rates are better.  In early September the colors are amazing, but in late spring the mountains are still snow covered. 

  

Alaska..........you'll have a beary good time!

Valdez and a ferry good six hours!

The John Thomas Kelsey Municipal Dock was a great place to relax and take in the spectacular scenery.  Is it Switzerland or Alaska?

I'll have to admit that prior to starting this adventure I knew very little about Valdez, Alaska.  I did know it was a city located somewhere in Alaska.  I also knew that Exxon had a ship named Valdez that had run aground years ago causing a massive oil spill and environmental disaster.  Those two sentences pretty much sum it up.  Thankfully I'm married to a wonderful planner who knows a lot more and is an expert in researching and finding amazing places for us to visit.  

It was our first time staying in a tiny home (Airbnb).  It was very comfortable and we had plenty of room.

If I had to sum up Valdez in one word it would probably be WOW!  Beth told me that this city of around 4,000 residents that is located on the Prince William Sound is often referred to as Little Switzerland.  Having visited Switzerland some years back, I had to see it to believe it.  Having just spent two wonderful days in Valdez, it can certainly hold it's own to any place I've seen in Switzerland.  The charming, small city is surrounded by snow covered mountains, with what literally seemed like hundreds of waterfalls feeding freshly melted snow into the blue-green waters of the Prince William Sound.

Welcome to Valdez!

Valdez Harbor

Valdez  

At this time of year Valdez is waking from a long winter hibernation.  I was surprised to learn that it is actually classified as a temperate rainforest.  When I think of rainforests, I associate them with warm climates, but now I know that it's not always the case.  The amount of precipitation and cold (but not bitterly cold like some other places in Alaska) winter temperatures make Valdez one of the snowiest places on earth.  Annually it receives over 300 inches of snow, creating snow drifts that can sometimes be higher than the street lights!  

On Good Friday in 1964 the second strongest earthquake ever recorded struck just 45 miles from Valdez.  Most of the town was destroyed and 31 people lost their lives.  The ground was determined to not be safe for rebuilding.  Fifty two properties that were "structurally safe" were moved four miles away and a new town of Valdez was built.  This picture was taken at what is now known as Old Town Valdez.  These pilings were all that remained of part of the pier.

 

You can do a self guided tour of Old Town Valdez.  There are historical markers.  This is all that remains of the "Village Morgue".  I later learned the Village Morgue was actually a bar!

Glacier View Park near Valdez

The snow in the town has melted, the fishing and sightseeing boats are starting to run and within a few weeks Valdez will be filled with tourists.  It was really nice to catch it before everyone arrives.  However, we're thankful that it looks like it's shaping up to be a busy summer.  I'm sure the small shops, restaurants and other businesses are looking forward to doing a booming business.  As for our time in Valdez, we enjoyed simply roaming around and taking in the 360 degrees of awesome that Valdez has to offer, and frequently uttering words like wow, amazing, and incredible!

We spent the majority of our time walking the harbor district and sitting in the chairs on the Kelsey Municipal Pier.

Late yesterday (Sunday) morning we departed Valdez, but not in the same manner that we arrived.  We drove to Valdez by way of the Glenn and Richardson Highways.  To reach our next and final Alaska destination for this adventure (Girdwood) we had two options.  A 339 mile (approx. 6 hour) drive or a 6 hour ferry ride.  As much as we've enjoyed the driving we opted for the ferry.  It was a ferry, ferry good choice as we cruised slowly past the snow covered mountains and past numerous glaciers while enjoying  eagles, sea otters, seals and even one humpback whale.

The ferry coming up Prince William Sound to Valdez.

Getting closer..............

On board and cruising the sound!

Blue skies and smooth water!

This eagle was looking for a fish that wasn't paying attention!

The Exxon Valdez oil spill (1989) actually occurred close to the town of Valdez.  Over 11 million gallons of crude oil spilled into the water.  It impacted over 1.300 miles of Alaskan coast line.  The total cost of clean up was near 3 billion dollars and the total impact of the disaster was estimated at over 7 billion dollars.  With a lot of effort and time the area has been restored, although even today the area is still closely monitored for any late emerging effects.  This picture was taken in an area known as "Glacier Alley".  There were numerous small icebergs floating in the water, but no Titanic moments!

Approaching Whitter and the end of the ferry journey.

By road the only way in or out of Whitter is the 2.5 mile long Whitter Tunnel.  It's the longest highway tunnel in North America.  It is a one lane tunnel so the traffic direction changes every thirty minutes.  To make things even more interesting there are occasional trains that use the tunnel which cause additional delays.  It operates from 5:30 AM until 11:15 PM.

Deep in the Whitter Tunnel!  Notice the train tracks.......thankfully there were no approaching trains!

It's hard to believe we're getting near the end of this adventure...........however, it's exciting to know that the journey continues.

Getting a close up look at the the Matanuska Glacier...........

 

The best way to get up close to the Matanuska Glacier!

Our time at the Sheep Mountain Lodge was a combination of relaxation, while taking in the great views, and a high flying adventure.  From check in on Wednesday afternoon until departure around noon on Friday we didn't crank up the car.  Although most of our driving for this Alaskan adventure is behind us, we've already put over 1,500 miles on the car.  I think it had earned a little time off.

The lodge offered several trail options that had trail heads on the property.  These trails are used year round, as hiking trails in the summer and groomed cross country ski trails in the winter.  The snow has melted and we enjoyed a nice hike along one of the flatter trails that ran behind the Glacier View Airport.  Much to our surprise, we found a bench along the trail that gave us a great view of some Dall Sheep on the side of the tall, steep mountain that is appropriately named Sheep Mountain.  

Watching the dall sheep lick rocks.

The sheep are quite a sight to watch.  They perform death defying acts of walking and jumping from one small ledge to another.  We've learned that it's not just a game of "follow the leader" or "amuse the tourist".  There are several reasons they do what they do, where they do it.  First, they're well protected from most predators.  Secondly, the rocks along the side of the mountains are rich in minerals like sodium and magnesium.  The sheep literally lick the rocks to replenish minerals not readily available in their diet.  Fun to watch, but I don't think I'll replicate this feat.  I'll just stick to my One-A-Day-Vitamin for old men.

We were pleasantly surprised to learn that the lodge had a hot tub.  Along our travels we've rarely met a hot tub we didn't like and that was certainly the case here.  Although it was indoors it had huge windows that could be opened for fresh mountain air and magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.  We enjoyed a couple of soaks in the hot water while kicking back and taking in the scenery.

The highlight of our time at Sheep Mountain Lodge was on Friday just before check out.  We had talked with Mark about a helicopter tour and glacier landing.  He and his wife Ruthann own and run the lodge.  Mark is licensed as both a fixed wing and helicopter pilot as well as an aviation mechanic.  He offers flight seeing tours of the glacier and surrounding mountains, as well as transportation for more adventurous (and probably younger) folks who do ice climbing, back country camping, etc.  He also knows the weather in the area really well.  In spite of what the Weather Channel was showing, he said the weather would be better on Friday morning than Thursday afternoon.  If you can't trust your pilot with over twelve years of experience flying the Glacier, who can you trust?

As it turns out, he was right.  We took off from the lodge around 10:45 under mostly clear skies and very light winds.  The 10-15 minute flight out to the glacier was breathtaking.  We flew around and over mountains before reaching the glacier.  Once we were there we circled around a portion of the glacier while Mark enthusiastically shared some of his vast knowledge of the history, geography and geology of the area.  We made a soft landing near the largest of the crystal clear glacial pools.  On our 15-20 minute walkaround we learned more about the geology and how the pools form, flow and eventually drain.  All the while, new pools are forming to entertain future travelers to this 26 mile long, 4 mile wide glacier.  Not only was it great seeing the glacier up close, we also spotted moose, dall sheep and mountain goats along the flight.

Ready for take off!

The dark area in the middle are rocks that have been crushed and pushed up to the surface forming the spine of the glacier.  

Amazing 360 degree views from the air.

According to Mark most of the glacier pools are around 100 feet deep (although some go much deeper).  They eventually drain leaving large holes for ice climbers to enjoy.

The waterfall to the right of Beth is about 30 feet high.

Before returning to the helicopter Mark and I took a few minutes to skip a few rocks across the glassy, smooth and very cold water.  Not surprisingly, I lost the rock skipping contest to a more experienced skipper.  I took solace in knowing, that for what will most likely be the only time in my life, I was standing on a glacier in Alaska skipping rocks into a 100+ foot deep glacier pool.  Second place isn't so bad!  

Gold and Silver Medalist in the Glacier Rock Skipping Contest.

We've now made our way to Valdez for a two night stay in a really cool tiny home (Airbnb).  Along the drive we were surprised when we passed by one of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve Visitors Centers (currently closed).  This national park was mentioned in a previous blog and is the largest of all our national parks (larger than the state of New Hampshire).  We didn't stay long but we did enjoy a nice overlook and captured a few photos as proof we had been there even if we only saw a minuscule bit.

Another National Park checked off the list.......

The tip of my finger is where we were in Wrangell-St. Elias.  The blue shaded area is the entire park.

The drive also took us over Thompson Pass, and then by the Worthington Glacier State Recreation Area which is still covered in deep snow.  Near Valdez we drove through Keystone Canyon, which is a deep canyon with numerous, massive, cascading waterfalls on both sides.

A few of the many Keystone Canyon waterfalls.......

This is the Railroad Tunnel of 1906, cut through Keystone Canyon.  According to historians, it was hand carved by nine companies to shorten the railroad route.  Before it was finished a feud with gunfire  erupted and it was never finished.

We did get out and roam around Valdez a bit last evening.  Although it was a little rainy and cloudy it seems like a beautiful area.  We enjoyed ice cream from the local ice cream shop (Northern Treats), while staring at the mountains and boats coming and going on Prince William Sound.  As we drove into town we spotted the first black bear that we've seen on this adventure.  I'm not saying we're getting accustomed to spotting bears, but when she saw it Beth kind of nonchalantly said "there's a bear".  While we were in town and enjoying our ice cream I got a notice from our Airbnb host that there were bears out between town and our temporary home.  We, along with several other cars parked and watched  a momma bear and her three playful cubs for around five minutes before they slowly (especially two of the cubs) made their way back into the thick woods. 

Our first black bear of the trip!

Momma and her cubs.  One is on the left, one is on the right and one is hanging closely behind.

Shortly we'll get out and explore this area, which is often referred to as "Little Switzerland".  Even though it's already a little after 9:00 AM, sunset tonight isn't until 10:44 PM.  I think we've got plenty of time. 

This was taken out a small window in our Valdez Airbnb at 3:10 AM.  The sun "sets" but it never gets completely dark at this time of year.