Tortuga Bay

Tortuga Bay!

First things first.  I have made a correction to yesterday's blog.  What I identified as a seal is actually a sea lion.  Sorry about that, no nature points for me!  The easiest way to tell the difference, sea lions have visible ears and you can't see the seal's ear.
Today was our second full day on Santa Cruz.  Our main activity was hiking to, and swimming in Tortuga Bay.  From the hotel it was about four miles each way.  The first two miles were along the waterfront through the town of Puerto Ayora.  Once we got across town there was a really nice two mile walk to the swimming beach.  The first mile and a half were along a paved path that ended at the beach.  This path was through lava fields with small brush and cactus.  The cactus were interesting because they are quite tall and the trunk resembles a pine tree.

Along the paved path to Tortuga Bay

Lava and cactus along the path

Opuntia Cactus

The first beach is really beautiful and while you can swim there at times it was closed today due to strong currents and high surf.  From there it was another 15 minutes or so walk along the sand to a really nice beach in a protected cove.     We had entertainment on the beach part of the walk.   There were hundreds of Marine Iguanas from babies up to huge adults.  Some iguanas were sunning themselves on the sand and rocks.  Others were chilling out in the shade, while others were swimming.  About the only thing we didn't see them doing was playing beach volleyball or Frisbee.  If watching them isn't entertaining enough they have one characteristic that adds even more value, they snort a lot.  The snorting is how they remove excess salt that has been absorbed through their skin.  It's kind of a combination of a sneeze and blowing their nose followed by a puff of white mist.  Fun to watch! 

First Beach-The Red Flags (No Swimming) were out due to high surf and strong currents

Keeping in mind that the seasons are opposite of ours in the Northern Hemisphere, the Galapagos Islands are in the early part of their winter.  It's still pretty close to the equator so there really isn't a need for snow plows and parkas.  The average high in the summer here is in the mid-80's and the average high during "winter" is a balmy 72 degrees.  It was cloudy this morning so I'm betting the temperature was around 75 by the time we got to Tortuga Bay. The water was a little chilly at first but not uncomfortable.
If you ever find yourself on Santa Cruz and you're looking for a nice beach, check out Tortuga Bay.  Here are a few things to remember:
1.   You can't drive to Tortuga Bay.  It is reachable by walking the path or hiring a boat.
2.   If at all possible, take a hike.  It's a very nice paved trail.  There is a little bit of up and down but
      nothing major.
3.  You will have to register at the start of the hike.  There is no fee but they do ask for your passport       number on the registration (you don't have to show your passport, just provide the number).
4.   Bring food and water.  There are no concessions at the beach.
5.   There are no changing areas.
6.   There are no restrooms...........other than the Pacific Ocean!
7.   Bring your camera, you'll want plenty of pictures............here are some of the ones we took today:

The Swimming Beach at Tortuga Bay

Marine Iguanas at the beach

We were sitting under a shade tree with this guy

Taking a dip

I looked down to find this between my feet

We ate at the food kiosks again.  This was the grilled plate for two.  There was beef, chicken, pork chop, chorizo, shrimp, grilled corn..............and a little butter on the corn! 

Fresh fish and lobster at the food kiosks

We've made a decision.....................

Taking in the view of Finch Bay on the way to Las Grietas

.We started our first full day retracing some of our steps from the previous afternoon.  In my blog on June 6 I thanked Debbie for the use of her camera.  We really have enjoyed it and appreciated the quality of pictures we're getting.  As a way of showing our gratitude we lost her camera bag (not the camera, just the bag and some accessories).  We were pretty sure that we had left it at the Charles Darwin Research Center in the area where we first saw the tortoises.  I guess we got a little excited and laid it down when we pulled out the camera.  To make a long story short, in spite of retracing our steps and checking every possible place it could have been turned in, it's a goner.  Obviously we're going to make good on everything and we are really thankful that the camera wasn't still in the bag!  We're thankful for Debbie's kindness and understanding.  I doubt anyone will be loaning us anything in the future.
After the fruitless search and feeling a little bummed we headed towards town with hopes that a  refreshing dip at Las Grietas might cheer us up.  Las Grietas is a grotto that was formed by a volcanic eruption(s), and thousands of years of erosion.  To get there it was a short walk through town to the main pier where for 80 cents each we took a water taxi across the inlet.  From the landing there was a quarter mile path to the grotto.  Even though we were fairly early there were still quite a few folks already enjoying the water.  I'm not a fan of cold water, but I knew I wanted to get in.  I opted for the complete immersion and jumped from the end of the small platform, instead of trying to gradually inch my way in.  Beth followed my lead and jumped in right behind me.  The brackish water was cool but not freezing and it was certainly refreshing.  After swimming we took the water taxi back to town for a bite to eat before heading to the hotel for a shower and RTBT (Rest Time Best Time as NaNa would put it).

Las Grietas

We had arranged through the hotel for a taxi to take us to the "highlands" section of the island for the afternoon.  There were a couple of interesting stops on the agenda.  First up was a stop at an area where there were two "volcanic sinkholes".  There was a short trail around the holes which looked to be around 200 feet deep.  Over a very long time the floors of the sinkholes have gone from barren volcanic rock to lush green.  The holes are now filled with various plants and trees which are now home to numerous birds and other animals.

The Volcanic Sinkhole

From there our very nice taxi driver, who spoke almost no English, drove us to the El Chato Ranch and Tortoise Reserve.  This large spread of land is a working cattle ranch, but it also is a reserve where the Giant Tortoises live and roam freely.  Before getting to the tortoises there was a hike through two very large and impressive lava tubes.  They were both much longer than ones we had seen previously in Hawaii and the Azores.  In addition to being quite wide and high the second one was also quite long.  Once we emerged from the second tunnel we were in the land of the Giant Tortoises.  Unlike at the Darwin Center, where they are housed in large walled in spaces, these were free to roam around the huge ranch.  There was a path around part of the ranch and we were able to get to within 10 feet of these massive, docile animals.  Here are a few tortoise facts you can amaze your friends with; First, they can live to be around 150 years old (I'm not sure what they think about during all that time but I'm sure they come up with something to keep their minds occupied).  Second, the age of a tortoise can be estimated by the rings on the plates of their shell.  While this may sound similar to estimating the age of trees, it's actually opposite.  As they age the rings disappear.  Imagine that, smoother skin as you get older!  Third,  once they reach a certain size they have no natural predators (the young are sometimes preyed upon by large birds and other animals).  We heard one of the paid guides who was showing a couple around that they pretty much spend their entire lives eating and resting.  Beth and I talked it over for just a few seconds before reaching a consensus.  If there is such a thing as reincarnation we've decided to request to come back as tortoises............eating and resting, not a bad way to spend 150 years!.

Inside the Lava Tube at El Chato

El Chato Ranch and Tortoise Reserve

Eat, Rest, Repeat

When we were finished at the reserve our taxi driver dropped us off near the main pier.  We found a bench in the shade to practice one of our favorite pastimes, sitting quietly, people watching and staring at water.   As we got up to leave we noticed a rather unusual site, a Sea Lion asleep on a bench just down from where we were sitting!  To the locals it was no big deal and they simply walked around him, while smiling at the rest of us who were clamoring for pictures.  I didn't see it happen but he must have popped up on the water taxi dock, waddled up to the pier, found an empty bench and climbed up for a little siesta.  Not something you see everyday in most places!

From our bench on the pier...........not a bad place to spend a little time

You never know who you'll find sleeping on a bench on the pier

Siesta!

We finished off the day with a dining experience that was just the type we enjoy.
The nice folks at the hotel told us about the food kiosks that are open every night in downtown.  It's actually a block long area of one of the main roads (Charles Binford Ave.).  There are small food kiosks lining both sides of the street that open around 6:00PM.   Fresh fish, lobsters, pizza, sushi, burgers, beef, vegetarian and more can be found at the various kiosks.  We did a little Trip Advisor review and decided on K F William.  The food was fantastic.  I went for the Shrimp in Coconut Sauce with Rice and Beth opted for the Lobster in Coconut Sauce with Rice.  There was a side order of beans for the rice as well.  The two entrees and a couple of drinks set us back less than $40.  Great food at a decent price in about as casual of a setting (the middle of the street) as you can get.






The food kiosks along Charles Binford Ave.

A Perfect way to end the day!

Galapagos Islands Day 1............weary but not defeated

After about 36 hours of boats, planes, airports (airport security in Iquitos, Lima and Quito), an airport bus, a short ferry and a taxi we arrived at our first Galapagos hotel a little weary.  The Galapagos Islands are a part of Ecuador and are located about 620 miles from the mainland.  We're staying in the city of Puerto Ayora on the Island of Santa Cruz.  This laid back coastal town has a population of around 12,000 and is the largest city in the Galapagos Islands.




To get from the airport, which is on Baltra Island, to Santa Cruz you take a short ferry ride.  Suitcases are stacked on top.  I'm sure one or two have had to be fished out on choppy days.

The ferry ride is only about five minutes and costs $1.00

Even though we were dragging a bit it was mid afternoon so we wanted to keep going until early evening.  After checking in at the Galapagos Suites Hotel and getting some very helpful advice from the staff we headed out.  Our first stop was the Charles Darwin Research Center which is an easy 15 minute walk from the hotel.  The center offered some information on Darwin's work and is now very involved in conservation efforts of the giant Galapagos Tortoises.  Thanks to their work the tortoise population is no longer endangered on the islands.  It was fun to see these massive adults right on down to small hatchlings that were born earlier this year.

He tried but after a few minutes she got bored and slowly walked away.



Tortoise Buddies 

The Research Center even has a swimming pool!

The Research Center is located right along the coast and there were a couple of paths that led to down to the water.  It was along this path that we encountered another animal common to the islands, the Marine Iguana.  I've seen a lot of Iguana's in my day, but not any as large as these guys.  There were hundreds of them along the path, beach and rocks.  One thing that we had heard was that the animals in the Galapagos are oblivious to humans and we're finding that to be true.  If an iguana had decided to rest in the middle of the path you simply had to walk around him.

An obstacle along the path

He was at the Charles Darwin Center.  Not a native of this island.



Darwin Research Center Beach

Handsome Young Man!



After the Research Center we headed down into the main part of town.  It has an interesting feel to it.  Although the streets are lined with touristy t-shirt shops and tour operators it really doesn't have a "touristy" feel to it.  There was a local fish market where fisherman were bringing in their catch of the day.  There was a seal hanging out at the fishmarket that was just sitting with the vendors like he was one of the gang.  It's illegal to feed them but I'm sure a scrap or two falls off the table every once in a while.

After a stroll around to get our bearings for future reference we headed back to the hotel.  We were asleep by 8:00PM.  Needless to say, neither one of us needed to be rocked to sleep.    

Pictures!

After an hour and a half boat ride back to the main lodge,followed by another two hour boat ride, we were back in Iquitos.  A flight from Iquitos to Lima was followed by a midnight flight from Lima to Quito, Ecuador. I finally found it.  Wi-Fi that would let me download some of the pictures.  There are still a few to add (and I hope to figure out how to post videos sometime) but there are now pictures on all the blogs from the Amazon Rainforest!
Thanks to Debbie for letting us borrow her nice camera.  Our only cameras are our cell phones.
Check them out, but before you do here are some sunset pictures we took from the Tahuayo Lodge..............enjoy!



Day 5 It must be genetic

Today was the day.  Piranha fishing was on the morning agenda!
We loaded up the boat and headed up river about 20 minutes before tying up to a tree.  Nixon handed us our fishing equipment.  Not a fancy Garcia or Penn Rod & Reel.  A tree branch pole with a short line, small leader and hook. It was time to catch the fish that would like to catch us.
In just a short period of time our boat driver hooked the first one.  According to Nixon it was a White Piranha.  He (I'm assuming it was a he) was about the size of my hand with some pretty gnarly upper and lower teeth.  Nixon asked if we planned on keeping our catch and we agreed that we weren't that interested in eating them.  I had actually tasted some that had been caught by a group back at the Tahuayo Lodge.  It was a pretty nice tasting fish although it had a lot of small bones.
Shortly thereafter Beth landed her first fish, also a White Piranha.  Three more were caught before we were done.  All three of them were "Red Belly Piranha".  One was quite a bit larger than the others with very large, razor sharp teeth.  The final score on the fishing..........  Our boat driver-4, Beth-1, Nixon-0 and me-0.  Do I feel sad to have been whipped by Beth in fishing.  Heck no!  After all her dad was one of the greatest fisherman of all time.  It must be genetic!

Beth and her White Piranha



Nixon and I were shut out!

Our boat driver and a Red Belly Piranha  (It was the largest one we caught and from what I understand about as big as they get) 

Check out the gnarly teeth on that boy!

On the way back to the Research Center Nixon did it again.  He quickly stuck up his hand and directed the driver to head towards a group of trees along the rivers edge.  It took us a while (as usual) to see what he was seeing but when we did it was a real treat, an anteater.  He was high up in the trees moving casually from branch to branch enjoying a mid-morning snack.  Also a few branches below was a porcupine which I can proudly claim to have been the first to see.  I pointed him out to Nixon who smiled and said something about me becoming a guide.

Anteater

Doing what anteaters do.........eating the ants in the tree

Totally oblivious to us

Still hanging around

After lunch we did our final canoe paddle.  Full  disclosure, we sit and Nixon paddles.  Again we were amazed at his navigational skills through the dense jungle.  We finally decided that Nixon has both vision and hearing super powers of some type.  We see only a dense canopy of trees.  Nixon sees right through them to find monkey's, sloths and other animals.  These super powers were on display again as he pointed out these and other animals during our two hour trip.

Spotted Tree Sloth

After the sun went down we did a short walkabout finding giant frogs and toads and a night fishing white tern.  There was a partial caiman sighting.  Nixon saw it (of course), I saw it but Beth never could pick it up in the thick vegetation. We also spotted a very large tarantula that ducked into a hole in the tree before we could get a picture.

Frog that we found on the nightwalk.  Nixon said they were edible and that they tasted like.............chicken (of course)



Giant Toad on the nightwalk

It's now Tuesday morning around 9:00 AM.  Our bags are packed for the hour and a half boat ride back to the main lodge.  We'll have lunch there before getting another boat back to Iquitos.  We have a flight at 8:00 tonight that will take us back to Lima (3rd time).  From there we catch a 12:05 flight to Quito, Ecuador.  We have about an eight hour layover before catching a flight to the Galapagos Islands for our last stop on this South American adventure.
Before breakfast this morning we had one final adventure.  It was actually a repeat of one we did yesterday.  Beth requested another piranha fishing trip.  We went down river today a short distance to a small lake to try our luck again. The little boogers are very hard to catch.  Their razor sharp teeth nibble away at the meat on the hook a little at a time.  Todays fishing report:  Nixon-3, our driver-0 (he was mostly a spectator today), Beth 1 and me 1/2..  I actually caught one!  He was the runt of the litter.  Hey, anyone can catch a big fish.  It takes talent to catch something as small as this one.

Nixon really put the pressure on me when he caught one

Total Concentration

At last, at last, at last

What an adventure this has been.  The idiots are on the move again!

Drop the bait in the water and beat the pole on the water to attract the boys

Nixon spotted this anteater as we were heading back to the lodge