Friday, February 16, 2018

Zion National Park and a ghost town.

Beth assures me that although I can't remember it, I've been to Zion National Park.  It was quite a few years back and a quick pass through so I'm not overly concerned that I can't remember it. Plus I haven't lost my keys, wallet or phone in a while so all is good.  What I can say about Zion can be summed up in one simple, three letter word........wow!
The changing colors of the 3,000+ foot  slot canyon walls surrounding you, combined with the Virgin River make for some great scenery everywhere you look in and around this park.  It's a total different experience than the Grand Canyon because here you're on the ground looking up at a much narrower canyon with rugged peaks instead of standing on the rim looking down (you can hike down into the Grand Canyon on steep, narrow trails).  I'm not taking anything away from the Grand Canyon, that would be downright un-American and wrong.  We don't like to compare experiences but if I had to pick the Grand Canyon or Zion I'd pick..........that we don't like to compare experiences.
We're staying at a SpringHills Suites in the small city of Springdale which is just outside the park.  The property is exceptionally nice with an outstanding team and a perfectly maintained hot tub that we've put to good use every day.  Zion NP is much smaller than the Grand Canyon NP (1,900 sq miles/ 229 sq miles) but has some really great hiking trails that we've explored.  Most are located off a road called the "Scenic Drive" which is a funny name because while the scenery on that road is exceptional it's really no different than anywhere in the park.  We've enjoyed the Temple of Sinawava Riverside Trail, Weeping Rock Trail and Emerald Pool Trail so far and will probably take in a few more today before heading out of this area to explore the other four of Utah's "Mighty Five" National Parks.
https://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm
https://www.visitutah.com/places-to-go/most-visited-parks/the-mighty-5/
Yesterday we drove South along Highway 9 for a few miles to the small community of Riverdale.  In Riverdale we turned off the highway, crossed a one lane bridge with a no passing sign, and after a few miles on a dirt road found ourselves in the Ghost Town of Grafton.  It was founded in the 1800's by members of the Mormon Church and at one point in it's history had a one room school house with over forty children.  While the last remaining settlers families didn't leave until the 1940's many had abandoned the area by the turn of the century.  Struggles with the native Americans, the harsh conditions and diseases drove them out of the area.  There are a few remaining buildings that are being restored as well as a very interesting small cemetery that helps tell the story of their struggle to survive.  A small plaque at the cemetery described the challenges they faced and pointed specifically to the winter of 1866.  In the span of just four months (Jan-April) seven children died of diphtheria along with one mother of two of the children.  Two other children died in an accident and three young adults in their 20's were listed as "killed by Indians".  On a lighter note (thankfully), the little Ghost town is also known as the location from a famous scene in the movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.  It's the scene with Butch (Paul Newman) and Etta (Katherine Ross) riding the bike while "Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head" is playing in the background.  The house in the scene was built for the movie but the church next to it is the original church for the community.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_5l6rIUu4A
https://roadtrippers.com/us/rockville-ut/points-of-interest/grafton-ghost-town
I would highly recommend spending an hour or so in Grafton if you're in the neighborhood.  Speaking of recommendations, you gotta eat!  We've found two good ones.  Oscars in Springdale and River Rock Roasters in La Verkin.  We split a huge burger at Oscars, making sure we had left room for their "Carrot Cake to Die For", which was exceptional.  At River Rock Roasters we enjoyed an outdoor table overlooking the Virgin River while munching on what was described on the menu as a Thai Inspired "Phuket Pizza".  The fusion of Thai and Pizza knocked it out of the park!
 https://oscarscafe.com/
https://www.riverrockroasters.com/
We learned a couple of days ago of the passing of Beth's Uncle (NaNa's younger brother), Blake Whisenant.  Blake was an exceptional person.  He was a leader in the field of Agriculture. He was a member of the Florida Agriculture Hall of Fame and inventor of the Earth Box Gardening System.  NaNa has shared with us that in his youth Blake was also a skilled checker player and actor.  She loves to tell us about how hard he was to beat in checkers and that on Saturdays that they would frequently go to see the latest Gene Autry or Roy Rogers movie.  Afterwards the rest of the day would be spent reenacting all the big scenes from the movie.  Most importantly, Blake was a true gentleman who cared for everyone.  We sure could use a few more Blake's in the world these days!
http://www.bradenton.com/news/local/article200359334.html
https://earthbox.com


Zion National Park

Zion National Park

The drive through Zion National Park-Not the "scenic road" :)

Also not taken from the "scenic road"




Start of the River Trail

Along the River Trail

It was Valentines Day.  We had a contest to see who could find the best "heart shaped rock".  Beth found the one on the left and center.  I found the one on the right.  If you ask me they look more like a small and a large kidney bean and a worn sharks tooth.

The view from the balcony of our room in Springdale

Grafton Ghost Town.  This house was built for the movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.  I'm standing where Paul Newman once stood!

Grafton Ghost Town Church.  This is an original building that has been partially restored.

"The Russell House"  Grafton Ghost Town

Grafton Cemetery.  Robert, his wife Isabella and his brother Joseph were "killed by Indians" on April 2, 1866


Grafton Cemetery


River Rock Roasters Company





Phuket Pizza-River Rock Roasters Company




 

Tuesday, February 13, 2018

Snow Day!







We had three great days at the Grand Canyon.  As I had mentioned previously it's amazing how different it looks throughout the day as the angle of the sun and clouds play off the multicolored canyon walls.
Sunday there wasn't a cloud in the sky all day.  Yesterday was very overcast with occasional sleet and flurries and the canyon was full of mist and fog.  This morning we woke up to around 3 inches of freshly fallen snow.  Three days all different, all magnificent.
After roaming around for a while taking more pictures than a tour bus full of Japanese tourists we headed out for our next destination, Springdale, Utah (Zion National Park).  It was about a five hour drive that we stretched into seven or eight hours.  Zion looks totally different than the Grand Canyon, but equally amazing.  We're looking forward to exploring it and the surrounding area over the next four or five days.
Here's a few more Grand Canyon pictures...........enjoy!













Monday, February 12, 2018

Breaking necks down at the mud hole

As good as he was with the cast net PaPa was equally good with a rod and reel.  He had five grandchildren (Scott, Ben, Kyle, Kimberly and Sarah).  I think it's safe to say that they all caught their first fish or one of their first fish under his watchful eye.  Here he is with Kimberly on the dock at he and NaNa's house on AMI


Last week while we were still in Florida Beth and I set out for our morning walk.  We could tell from the water in the canal that the tide was high, so walking comfortably along the beach wasn't going to be an option. We opted for one of our street routes.  As we walked north on Marina Drive we passed a non-descript area that for me was a landmark.  I told Beth "that's the "mud hole", one of your dad's (PaPa) favorite mullet fishing spots on the island.  This memory jog set my little brain in motion as I started thinking about some of those fishing trips from back in the 70's.  There's been quite a bit of water under the bridge since then. These days I frequently find myself not being able to remember where I put my keys, sunglasses and any number of similar items, so I called on a few other fisherman from those trips to share their recollections.  I reached out to Drew Eason, Richard White, Brian Bustle and Roddy Jones.  Suddenly the text messages with stories and memories were blowing up my phone.
Roddy chimed in that he had actually come along after the mullet trips had stopped.  It's somewhat debatable if he was fortunate or unfortunate for missing out on these expeditions.  There certainly wasn't anything glamorous or sexy about these trips.  Some of the places we'd find ourselves fishing were pretty nasty.  I also can't recall there ever being a fishing show on TV about catching mullet like the ones you see of guys catching marlin, tarpon, snook or redfish.  If the cameras would have been rolling they would have captured some entertaining moments that would probably have been better suited for the Comedy Central channel than an outdoor adventure show.
For the uninitiated, when they hear the word "mullet" they immediately think of a bad men's hairstyle.  A mullet also happens to be a fish that is found in warm, shallow coastal areas pretty much throughout the world.  I've seen them in quite a few locations as we've traveled about and they're quite plentiful around Anna Maria Island.  They're bottom feeding vegetarians that often are found in large schools.  They can be caught on a hook but are most commonly caught by cast net. Full grown they weigh around 3-4 pounds and they actually are a pretty tasty fish. Especially the way PaPa used to prepare them (more on that later).
When it came to throwing a cast net PaPa was a master, or I should say "The Master".  There could have been some folks who could throw a net better than him.  I never saw them and if they did actually exist you could have counted them on one hand and not use all your fingers.  Drew, Brian, Richard and I along with quite a few others were his students.  He'd patiently work with us on technique while always reminding us not to get the dreaded "buck fever".   Buck fever was when there would be a large school of mullet swimming along that should be an easy catch only to be missed by making a lousy throw of the net.  These lousy throws were often referred to as "banana's" since that would be the shape of the net, instead of the perfect circle that PaPa would make pretty much every time.  Brian remembers actually seeing him make a really bad throw one time but similar to making lemonade from lemons he caught two redfish and one mullet.  That fishing spot became known appropriately at the "redfish hole: 
Every summer when Beth's extended family would gather on Anna Maria Island for their annual beach house celebration mullet fishing would be on the agenda.  On the two Sunday's and 4th of July there would be large family gatherings at Dick and Phyllis White's house that they would so generously open for everyone.  PaPa's smoked mullet were always a favorite.
To feed the masses we had to catch the fish first.  These fishing trips would always seem to start at some awful hour of the morning.  PaPa would come into the room where we guys would all be sacked out and start waking us up.  His favorite first target seemed to be Richard.  Richard remembers being semi-gently shaken while hearing the words "RW, RW, RW it's time to get up".  Slowly we'd all rise and head out and pile into the back of his pick up truck.  Actually the back of the truck was the desired location since the truck was not air conditioned and the odor of past mullet trips mixed with the smell of cigarette smoke (he later quit which was a huge accomplishment and source of great pride) filled the cab.
Mullet fishing back in those days didn't involve a boat or fishing from a pier or bridge.  PaPa could throw the net, which probably weighed 25-30 pounds, from chest deep water and he expected no less from us.  We'd scout out a few of his favorite locations which often times meant we'd drive that old green truck on private property that today would probably result in a visit from the local SWAT team.  The mud hole, behind the school, in a trailer park or behind houses were some of his favorite places.  He'd divide us up and send us off in various directions.  Soon we'd find ourselves wading waste deep around mangroves in water that could often be described as "muck.
Perfect fishing conditions were cloudy days because when you fish for mullet with a net it's really more like stalking them.  He'd tell us to stay low, not throw the net until you could see them schooled up and were close enough to see their mouths working.  The overcast conditions made getting closer to them easier and the fish wouldn't "spook" when they saw the net coming.  Drew, Brian and Richard could throw the net better than me but our skills paled in comparison to PaPa's.  So for every one we caught he'd probably catch eight to ten.
He'd love telling us stories about getting up on a large school of fish, seeing their mouths working, feeling his heart going bump, bump, bump and hoping he wouldn't get "buck fever".  Of course he never got "buck fever", so for the next bit of the story he'd rapidly pump both fists in the air to demonstrate how the fish were popping up and down trying to escape the net and their pending date with the fryer or smoker.
After catching these guys the next step of the process wouldn't make the PETA people too happy.  PaPa was convinced that the fish tasted better if you "bled" them immediately.  The easiest way to accomplish this was to grab the fish around the belly with one hand, the head with the other hand and break their necks.  Not real glamorous.  The fish probably didn't care for it but it beat flopping around in an ice chest. Plus if it made the fish taste better what the heck, lets break some necks.
Mullet fishing in and of itself is hard work, but now that we've caught them we had to clean them.  Usually by this time it would be mid-day.  We'd be unimaginably nasty looking and smelling, with what seemed like millions of fish to clean.  Drew recalled that when it came to cleaning that even though we had enough fish to feed a large army PaPa didn't want us to waste any "good meat", and we had to scrape filet by filet the black lining off the stomach.
As much as he loved catching them PaPa loved preparing the fish for these feasts.  Some fish would be fried but his specialty was "smoked mullet".  Smoked mullet are prepared the same was as you would prepare a good brisket.  Over a low heat for several hours.  There was no fancy store bought smoker for PaPa.  He had fabricated an old 55 gallon drum into a back yard smoker.  Since he had worked for the railroad this drum had probably been discarded around the rail yard and there is absolutely no telling what toxic chemicals it had contained in it's previous life.
Low heat from charcoal, and a little citrus wood combined with a little bit of honey and lime juice, and some patience and pretty soon you'd have the perfect smoked mullet.  When they were done and ready for consumption PaPa would boldly proclaim "these are some of my best" and he was always right.
There isn't much mullet fishing done by the family these days.  It's been replaced by boats, rods and reels but the memories of breaking necks down at the mud hole are priceless.  My mouth is watering for a smoked mullet right now.






 

Sunday, February 11, 2018

A whole lot of hiking going on!

We woke up this morning to a nippy 22 degrees.  In spite of the chill in the air it was a clear and sunny day that eventually warmed up into the low 40's by mid-afternoon.  Perfect for a nice long hike.
We headed east along the Grand Canyon Rim Trail.  This trail, as the name implies, hugs the rim of the canyon so there are spectacular views the whole way.  Not only are the views amazing but they are also constantly changing from sunrise to sunset.  It's an amazing sight that I think would never grow old.
We hiked from the Grand Canyon Village area where our lodge is located to the South Kaibab Trailhead.  When we got to the trailhead we met a group of young women coming off the trail.  They had hiked the 7.1 miles down to the Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor yesterday.  After spending the night they hiked out today.  Better them than us, but I guess they did provide some inspiration.  We were debating taking the shuttle bus back but we decided to hike back.  There may not have been much of an elevation change but by the time we made it back to the lodge we had covered 12-13 miles.  The views on the return were just as spectacular, although we didn't stop quite as often to take them in.  We knew there was a hot shower waiting for us.


http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com/lodging/phantom-ranch/


Heading out.......still a bit nippy

Me showing Beth how wide the canyon is

This bull was relaxing just off the trail

Along the trail.  Not a cloud in the sky all day.

Mule Deer feeding along the trail as we returned



Saturday, February 10, 2018

Whew!

It was a long travel day.  The alarm was set for 3:00 AM to give us time to get from the island to Tampa.  It was a 6:00 AM flight from Tampa to Dallas.  Switching planes in Dallas before flying on to Phoenix.  Once on the ground in Phoenix it was about a five hour (with a couple of stops) drive to the Grand Canyon.  Thanks to the time change along the way we were able to take off at sunrise in Florida and enjoy sunset on the south rim of the Grand Canyon.  All in a days work!
One of the stops was for lunch in Phoenix.  The travel gods were with us today!   Our route to the Grand Canyon carried us within a mile or so of a place we had enjoyed previously.  It's a funky little "hole in the wall" called Chino Bandido.  It's a fusion of Asian and Mexican that works perfectly.  Carnitas and Fried Rice..........no problem.  Jade Chicken in a quesadilla............no problem.   Great food, extra friendly staff and a great atmosphere featuring plastic folding tables with mismatched folding chairs.  No wonder it was featured on Diners, Drive In's and Dives.  If you find yourself in the Phoenix area check it out.  Thanks again to Derek and Christine Stewart for the recommendation!
http://chinobandido.com/
It's now a little after 7:00 PM local time, making it a little after 9:00 in Florida.  We've set a goal of 8:00 but if you were going to bet it, I'd suggest you bet the under.
Whew!  A good day but a long one.


Grand Canyon Village

Sunset from the South Rim

Not our usual "foot shot"-We do still own shoes!

You gotta try it!

Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Honor, Sacrifice and Keeping Their Spirits Alive

This is a true story about two of my uncles that died long before I was born. Even though they have been gone a long time and we never met they've become my hero's.  Sadly because so much time has passed there are more unknowns than there are known facts, but based on what I have learned, it's a story worth telling about two guys who shouldn't be forgotten.
One day while I was in high school for some strange reason I stopped to read a plaque on the side of the main office of the school.  The plaque was in honor of graduates of Mulberry High School who had died while serving in World War II. While reading the names of those who had died, two names stuck out, Earl W. Aultman and Arthur B. Aultman.  Aultman is not really a common name and I knew it was my mothers maiden name.
Later that evening I remember asking my mom something along the line of "did you know the two Aultman's from Mulberry that died in World War II?  Her answer was quite unexpected and shocking.  She said "they were my brothers".  Maybe the question caught her by surprise or dredged up incredibly painful memories but it was clear that she didn't want to talk about it even though more than thirty years had passed. It was a little out of character but I didn't push it and that conversation with mom which lasted less than a minute was all she ever told me about her brothers.
For some strange reason I never forgot that brief conversation. I've learned from my brother (Gerald) and an aunt (Pat Ball) that after my grandfather lost his second son in less than two years he said "we're not going to talk about them ever again".  Why he felt this way I really don't know but I'm choosing to believe that it was just too painful. I've learned from several people who I have told  my grandfathers edict to that it really wasn't that unusual at that time, even though it seems incomprehensible today.
 Over the years for some reason my curiosity as to who they were and what happened to them never left me.  I kept promising myself that "one day" I would commit to learning as much as I could about the two uncles that I never knew.  I'm not finished digging and researching but with all due respect to my grandfather, their stories deserve to be told and their memories kept alive for a little longer.
A little background information that I've learned from a family bible.  My grandparents were married in April, 1917.  Arthur was the oldest of their three children and was born in March, 1918.  Earl was the middle child, born in October, 1921 and my mom was the youngest born in January, 1925.
Upon graduation from Mulberry High School Arthur and Earl joined different branches of the military.  I'm not certain if they "volunteered" or were among the more than 10 million "drafted" into  service between 1940 and 1945.  Arthur was in the Army, Earl the Navy.
Not only did they end up in different branches of the military but they served in different campaigns thousands of miles away from each other.  Arthur was a member of the 703rd Tank Destroyer Battalion that was based out of Camp Polk, Louisiana which was deployed to the European Campaign.  Earl was assigned to the USS Little (DD-79) which left Norfolk, Va. in February, 1942 sailing to San Diego before making it's way, via Pearl Harbor to Guadalcanal in the Solomon Islands. 
On September 5, 1942 the USS Little was transporting Marines between islands when it came under fire from what was believed to be a Japanese submarine.  A Navy aircraft, also believing the shots had been fired from a submarine, dropped flares to assist the Little and it's sister ship the USS Gregory.  Unfortunately three Japanese destroyers were in the area and the illumination from the flares made the outgunned US transport ships easy targets.  The Little and Gregory were quickly disabled. The Gregory sank at approximately 1:40 AM and the Little sank two hours later.  Yeoman 3rd class Earl W. Aultman and 63 of his shipmates lost their lives that night.
Thanks to Gerald there are a few mementos that remain, including Earl's Oath of Allegiance signed on his induction, an Asian Pacific Campaign medal, his Purple Heart medal and a very chilling telegram sent from my Grandfather to a relative that simply said "Earl was killed in Action".
http://navylog.navymemorial.org/aultman-earl
I'm not certain where Arthur was stationed at the time of his brothers death or if he was able to return to Mulberry to be with his family.  I do know that the 703rd Tank Destroyer Battalion shipped out from New York in September, 1943 for England. Upon arrival they trained through what was described in a commanding officers report as a "harsh English winter".  By the 30th of June, 1944 they had crossed the English Channel to Normandy, France.  The D-Day invasion of American, British and Canadian troops that began on June 6 was still raging.  The battalion was attached to an army armored division and engaged in combat by July 8.
On July 11 at approximately 3:00 AM heavy shelling was reported and a one-quarter ton truck took a direct hit.  Along with multiple injuries of other troops, Arthur was the only casualty.  Within 675 days my grandparents lost both of their sons and my mom lost both of her big brothers.
Military records gave me the opportunity to learn how they died.  What I'd really like to know is how they lived.  Were they funny, serious, studious, jokers, athletic, musical?  Unfortunately too much time has passed to have those questions answered.  I do know that I'm honored to keep their spirits alive.
https://www.abmc.gov/node/406524#.WnjQteSWxMs




Arthur's Grave at Normandy American Cemetery
Plot E, Row 2, Grave 14








Earl's 8th Grade Picture from the 1937 Mulberry School Yearbook.  It's the only picture I have of either of them.

Earl's Navy Oath of Allegiance signed on Sept. 30, 1940

Earls Asiatic Pacific Campaign Ribbon (Left)
Arthurs American Campaign Ribbon (Right)

Earl's Purple Heart Medal
Arthur was also awarded the Purple Heart


















Saturday, February 3, 2018

Where's the water?

Our next "off the island" adventure is less than a week away.  This one is going to be a little different than most.  First, it doesn't involve an international flight or a cruise ship.  Second, on the off chance that there is water in the background of any pictures it won't be an ocean, sea or the Gulf of Mexico.  We'll be going inland to a place known for a lot of things, but other than a few rivers and Lake Powell water isn't one of them.
We'll be flying to Phoenix and road tripping it from there.   We'll be spending time at the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park (Utah), Bryce Canyon if the weather is good, Monument Valley (Utah), Sedona, Tucson and Scottsdale.  It's about 22 hours of driving spread out over a month.  Probably more than twice that number of hours on the trails! 


 https://www.nps.gov/grca/index.htm
https://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm
http://www.americansouthwest.net/utah/monument_valley/
https://visitsedona.com/
http://www.cactusleague.com/















Oceanfront Property?